A Travellerspoint blog

Ripped Apart by the Wind

Missing a Granddaughter's Birth


View 2000-01 Novices Overcoming ICW Obstacles on greatgrandmaR's travel map.

Wednesday, 4 April, 2001 Leaving Isle of Palms

JANET ANN left early, and then we left. We were passed by two other trawlers - STEEL MAGNOLIA and SUN CHASER. There was a third one GOOSE CHASE, but it never passed us although we heard them on the radio behind us. We passed a shrimp boat beached on the mud. Shore birds are mating on the mud flats.
04-1120.jpgShrimp docks in McClellanville

Shrimp docks in McClellanville


As power boats would pass us, the laughing gulls would prospect their wake. Saw a bunch of gourds for birdhouses hanging on a stake like a big bunch of grapes. The wind is on the nose at noon, and there is current against us. A sailboat named LUV IT passed us pretty close. A boat with a big frame on the top came up and passed. It turned out to be a
Trawler from Montreal.

Trawler from Montreal.


There were several bikes and a ladder on top, and more bikes on the stern along with fuel cans. I took a picture.
Close-up

Close-up


We came up to the ferry across the Mimms Creek Esterville Canal
7de69b70-eaeb-11e9-8680-e9532440dbe2.jpgMimms Creek Esterville Canal Ferry

Mimms Creek Esterville Canal Ferry


and they waved us on through. We were tied up in Georgetown by 4:30 at a marina called The Boat Shed. Nice people - let me do e-mail in the office. They have about 4 places for transient boats. No pay phones. Rest rooms aren't locked. It was $1/foot and that included electricity.
Boat shed marina

Boat shed marina


The picture shows the dry stack storage building for small power boats from the gas dock. The little brick building in the foreground is where the bathrooms are. There are also outdoor storage areas.

Next to the marina at the shrimp docks is a good place to buy fresh seafood.I took the picture of the shrimp boat from our boat (across the stern of a trawler which was flying a US flag).
Shrimp boat next to the marina

Shrimp boat next to the marina


We had done 53.9 miles at 6 mph. JANET ANN was already there, and we were behind another trawler named CIRCE. There was a cute little boy from a boat named TWILIGHT TIME fishing off the pier.

Bob walked up into town and I downloaded e-mail. STEEL MAGNOLIA, GOOSE CHASE, SUN CHASER and ODYSSEY all anchored right in front on the clock on the rice museum off Georgetown.
Rice Museum Clock tower

Rice Museum Clock tower


I heard the first 3 making arrangements to have dinner together because the people on GOOSE CHASE didn't want to leave their dog along on the boat.
Sweet Sensation anchored in Georgetown

Sweet Sensation anchored in Georgetown


Georgetown anchorage

Georgetown anchorage


We walked up into town.
Historic sign about the town clock

Historic sign about the town clock


Bob thinks they've missed a bet by having everything close down at 4:30 or 5. There were only two restaurants open past 6. We ate at the River Room.
River's Edge restaurant

River's Edge restaurant


I had a scallop, shrimp and cheese dish which was very rich. I ate all the veggies - salad, mashed potatoes, and a broccoli and squash mix, and the hard rolls, but I couldn't finish the casserole so I asked to take it back with me. The waitress forgot and threw it out. We had bread pudding for dessert, but instead of the light lemon cream sauce I'm used to it was a heavy sugary sauce with strawberry and kiwi fruit garnish. At least the waitress didn't charge for my dinner because she forgot and threw it out

Thursday 5 April 2001

JANET ANN leaves early and the CIRCE extricates himself from in front of us. STEEL MAGNOLIA and SUN CHASER and ODYSSEA leave - STEEL MAGNOLIA is bound for Barefoot Landing. We are only going to Wacha Wachee, so we leave at a more leisurely time. We are not going outside through the Georgetown inlet because the wind isn't going to be in the right direction. We see GOOSE CHASE leaving, and we pull out after them.
Ship anchored in Winyah Bay

Ship anchored in Winyah Bay


GOOSE CHASE calls us on the radio (calls us a sloop, but that's OK I guess) and says to get out our camera because there is a bald eagle on the daymark. It did look exactly like a bald eagle, but I thought bald eagles were bigger. I did take a photo, but it was against the sun.
Daymark with an eagle?

Daymark with an eagle?


GOOSE CHASE and the others were talking on the radio and TWILIGHT ZONE passed him and caused the boat to rock and broke some stuff so GOOSE CHASE complained on the radio.

I see a tug with two barges behind us as we leave Georgetown and head under the fixed bridge and up the Wacamaw River. It is going a little faster than we are, and is pretty far back. We decide to let them pass, so we hold up a bit. It is ISLAND BOY from Tampa and he has two barges of I beams. We 'draft' on him, staying as close as possible.

I had previously heard on the radio about a gill net strung across the river up by marker #77. Pretty soon, the tug and barges get to this point and the fisherman quickly moves his net for the tug to pass. We go by too. A sports fishing boat coming down the river is vigorously herded over to our side of the river by the net tender. As soon as we get by, he pulls it back across.
Wacca Wache

Wacca Wache

Store at Wacci Wache marina

Store at Wacci Wache marina


We got to Wacca Wache by noon, after 20.4 miles at 5.4 miles per hour for a total of 642 nautical miles. LUV IT, SUN CHASER and GOOSE CHASER are all here. GREAT LADY (a large motor boat) and JAGUAR (a sailboat from MD) come in after us, and SQUIRT, a trawler with dark blue topsides comes in after 6 and ties to the fuel dock. We had barbecue from the lunch counter for lunch and ate dinner in the cockpit.

Friday 6 April 2001

We started the engine at 7:30 and I spilled the juice from last night at dinner that I left in the cockpit and forgot. Bob was annoyed. GREAT LADY has already left to go to Norfolk. JAGUAR pulled out as we were leaving. SQUIRT left right after us. There is virtually no wind.

There are a lot of bushes with pink flowers on the shore. I think they are wild azaleas or rhododendron. The dogwood is in bloom too. The ospreys are nesting. I see one flying to his nest with a branch about 2 feet long. You can just see the tops of their heads sticking out of the nests.
Socastee Bridge

Socastee Bridge


We came to the Socastee Bridge. SQUIRT and JAGUAR are already there waiting for it to open - also ESCAPE IV from Mass. and SEA BONDS from Tilghman Island MD (both sailboats). A trawler named MATILDA II from Maine came up and passed and a Bayliner named MOONBOW from Crisfield also went by.HIgh tide

HIgh tide

New bridge in the Rockpile

New bridge in the Rockpile

When we got to Barefoot Landing, STEEL MAGNOLIA, SQUIRT and MOONBOW were all tied up there. We went on past. This time when we go through the RockPile it is high tide so we don't see the edges of the rock ledges, and it is sunny which gives a whole different perspective. We call the marina that we have made a reservation for (Lighthouse Keeper near Little River) on the radio, and on the phone but they don't answer. So I say, forget them and we went on the Cricket Cove. They ask if we mind being on the face dock, but we don't, so we head in. We see the guy coming down the dock in a golf cart as we run aground. Bob swears and backs off and goes back out into the channel, turns around and approaches from the north side. We are tied up with 40 miles at 7.2 mph for a total of 677 nm since leaving Miami.
Cricket Cove docks from the restaurant

Cricket Cove docks from the restaurant


After we tied up, SEA BONDS came in and tied up behind us. They are a Moody, and draw 5.5 feet, and he says they are having engine problems with oil usage, so they have been taking it slowly. Bob did the laundry there and was happy with it. They had 2 washers, whereas there was only one at Wacha Wachee. We ate at the restaurant (called a bar and grill), and had filet which was very good, but the chef forgot to wrap it in bacon. They brought the bacon later and he came to apologize. The food was very good - apparently under new management. Rolls were hot, and service was good - refilling Bob's tea every time he emptied it. There was a golfing paper on the table and I read it. It had a coupon for a free desert with an entree so I got that.
Party Boat

Party Boat


There is a party boat that goes up and down the river, but it just makes some noise and not much wake.

Saturday 7 April 2001

We get away from the dock early, just as LUV IT goes past. After talking to Herb on the SSB, we decide to go out the Little RIver inlet and come in the Cape Fear River to Bald Head island. The Bald Head website says it is protected, and it should be, but it is rough enough to be unsafe in winds from the south. Also the ferry boats rock you with their wake each time they come in or go out.

LUV IT goes down toward the Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge which, since it floats on the water, has NO vertical clearance and ALL boats have to stop and wait here until it is pulled away over to the side. It opens only once an hour. That is one reason we are going outside - to avoid it.
Lighthouse at Lighthouse marina in the morning

Lighthouse at Lighthouse marina in the morning


We cautiously go out the inlet - there isn't much wind, but we know that the markers are moved to account for shoaling and we don't want to miss any. We see a whole bunch of guys boat camping on the inlet peninsula - they have tents, and boats drawn up on the shore. After we successfully negotiate the inlet, we put up the sails, and eventually turn off the engine. We hear people going through the pontoon bridge every hour (or missing it) and then the CG comes up on the radio and says the bridge is closed until further notice!! He doesn't say why, but I gather it is because of too low a tide.

A see a bird that is mostly white and I think it is a swan. Bob says no it is a sea gull. It is too big for a gull, and it just has black tips to the wings. I look in the bird book. It is a gannet, a bird that mostly stays at sea.

We come in the Cape Fear River. Out a ways from land, the water changes color abruptly from blue to olive. It is not the depth, so it must be the outflow from the river. As we were coming in between Bald Head Shoals and Jay Bird Shoals, a little power boat named WET DREAMS asked us to turn on our radio to 16. It was already on - so I asked him what his problem was. He didn't answer or I couldn't hear an answer. He apparently was having engine problems, as he later got a tow from a local sailboat. With a name like that I would have hesitated to give him a line, plus he did not appear to be in any danger or distress although I would have called the CG for him. Maybe out of beer, or his engine was cutting out, I don't know. We were bucking a current of a couple of knots and trying to stay in the center of the channel.
x660683.jpg[Approaching Bald Head

Approaching Bald Head

Bald Head

Bald Head


We get into Bald Head after 43.9 miles at 5.9 mph by 3 pm. We got fuel and then tied up. The Maritime Market has been moved from next to the marina to a location so that you have to rent a golf cart to get there. The prices were outlandish. In the winter (before Memorial Day), the price is $1.10/ft plus $5.00 for 30 amp, but last time we were there, they overcharged us by using the summer rate which is $1.30/ft. When I discovered I'd been overcharged, I called them and they gave me a credit. This was just the last straw. Not only is the marina unsafe in some winds, they have moved the store so you have to rent a golf cart to get to it and they've eliminated the Boat US discount, but they can't be bothered to charge the right amount.

GOOSE CHASE came in ahead of us, and I went over and talked to them. We agreed that we would have to leave early in the a.m. so that we have a favorable current up the river and through Snow's Cut.

As I walk on the docks there is a female mallard quacking pretty vociferously. A male mallard is making soft apologetic quacks at her. Two laughing gulls are sitting together on a post squawking in unison. I see a large flock of ibis - a couple of hundred - wheeling over the island. I take some more photos of the CSY that is apparently permanently docked here.
Bow

Bow

x001116-1517.jpgCSY

CSY

Cockpit

Cockpit


We have dinner at the restaurant that wasn't open last time (Ebb and Flo's) and we had the steamer dinner for 2. We couldn't sit outside because we would be eaten alive by no-see-ums. Service was poor - slow and the food was cold when we got it. They only gave us one seafood cracker and one non-plastic knife. This restaurant is closed in the winter. The dinner consisted of potatoes (a lot -the majority of the food in the dinner), a couple of little pieces of corn about 4" long, two enormous sausages (which I didn't eat as I don't care for sausage), some shrimp, some clams, some oysters and a half of a king crab. This was the entire dinner for two people. These are SMALL pots that the food is in.
Steamer dinner for two

Steamer dinner for two


Sunday 8 April 2001

GOOSE CHASE leaves by 6:30 and we leave Bald Head a little later to catch the tide coming into the river. According to my figures, the tide will be coming in up to about 8:30, and if we go through Snow Cut before 9:30, the tide will be with us too. We had a fair current (going the same direction as we were) up the Cape Fear River,
Ferry dock - Southport

Ferry dock - Southport


and through SNow's Cut. We heard GOOSE CHASE at the Wrightsville Beach bridge when we were still a good distance (7-8 miles) away. We went through at 11:00 with SEA BONDS who had spent the night at Southport. This bridge only opens on the hour.

We got to the Figure 8 bridge about noon. I see a flock of cormorants swimming in formation, and there are a lot of great egrets spaced like little white telephone poles along the shore. We also see some common loons.

This section of he waterway is apparently into lawn ornament one-up-manship. On the way down we saw a giant swan.
Swan on the Lawn

Swan on the Lawn


Now there is also a life sized giraffe,
Giraffe statue

Giraffe statue


and a large double sized shiny metal mermaid statue.
Salt dome house

Salt dome house

Golf clubhouse

Golf clubhouse


A couple out zooming around in an inflatable comes close to the boat to ask where we've been. A Corps of Engineers boat named FRY passes us going south with a very long piece of pipe sticking out the front end like a giant cannon. The signs along the shore prohibit the taking of " Oysters, Clams or Messels". We still see people mucking about in the mud.
Marina entrance sign and fishermen

Marina entrance sign and fishermen


We tied up in Harbor Village Marina at 43.9 miles at 6.8 mph for a total of 753 nm. it is a flat $1.20/ft. .

GOOSE CHASE is already there. Later SEA BONDS, and ODYSSEA pull in. We are on the far edge of the marina from the office, rest rooms, showers etc. The office is very close to us, but is across the channel.
Marina office across the canal from us

Marina office across the canal from us


We either have to hope that the courtesy car is on our side and drive around, or walk about a half mile around the basin. Since there was no restaurant there, we had hot dogs for lunch, and I took the car around with the guy from ODYSSEA when he registered and did e-mail in the lounge. We ordered Chinese for dinner. So did SEA BONDS. I got General Tso's Chicken ($7.25 with white rice as a single entree) and Bob got Sweet and Sour Pork. The dinner is less than $10, but we tip the delivery person. They must do quite well out of the marina because almost all the transients order Chinese from them.
Panda Chinese delivery menu

Panda Chinese delivery menu

Monday 9 April 2001

Bob got us underway before 6. today. The computer has us well up on land when we are in the marina. It is a new marina, and isn't on the charts.
Chart of new marina

Chart of new marina


We are starting to have to put salt in the Lectrasans again (they need salt water to work), and we are running out of salt. It was less than 6 miles (Bob thought it was 7) to the Sears Landing bridge so we were there well before the 8 o clock opening. There are a lot of signs around saying that this is "Batt Deeded Bottom" and the violators will be prosecuted. Crab pots are encroaching on the channel, and there are also some stacked in the salt marsh.
Surf City bridge

Surf City bridge


We went by the big pink house at Alligator Point with a lighthouse in the yard and a frieze of dolphins across the front. I took a picture this time.
Pink House

Pink House


ODYSSEA passed us and then pulled over at Swan's Point for fuel, and then passed us again. We caught them both at the Onslow Beach bridge which is run by the Marines. We met a tug just up from the bridge - it was ISLAND BOY coming back with empty barges.

SEA BONDS asks if the waterway is closed for Marine live ammunition exercises. I ask the bridge and the tender says he doesn't know about anything. We hear some cannon fire, and see some smoke inland to the left. We go past a firing range tower
Watch tower

Watch tower


with a big red flag on it (GOOSE CHASE says incorrectly that it is the Marine flag, but it isn't). There's a bunch of guys there with binoculars, but they are mostly looking out at the beach and the ocean - have their backs to us. The AM radio is supposed to have messages of exercises at 530.
Broken (?) equipment Camp Lejeune

Broken (?) equipment Camp Lejeune


We get to Swansboro and tie up at Dudley's Boatyard by 1:30 after 38.8 miles at 6.0 mph for a total of 786 nm. They tell us to come in starboard side to, but Bob doesn't do it - he goes in port side too because if there is any kind of wind toward the dock, we won't be able to get out because the boat only backs to starboard. So we are at the end of the dock, facing in the direction we want to go.

Dudleys is a BP station and boatyard, and we are on fixed docks for the first time in a long time. We are on the outside of B dock at the north end. Next to us on the inside of the dock is SQUIRT. There are floating finger docks off the north side of B dock, but I guess the water there is too skinny for us. Between the long dock that goes out to B face dock and the long dock that goes out to C face dock is a marine railway. On the railway being sanded and painted by an old man is a work boat named SMALL FRY. GOOSE CHASE is already here on D dock.

SEA BONDS comes in and is put on the long C dock up by the railway. Then a whole group come in together. BUENA SUERTE, an Island Packet goes on the B dock side of the marine railway slip behind SEA BONDS. STEEL MAGNOLIA goes on B face dock behind us. FARAWAY goes behind SQUIRT, and a little undocumented boat from MD with grey topsides being singlehanded goes on the first floating dock off B dock. Later another trawler, CHANGE OF HEART goes in next to GOOSE CHASE on D dock.

Bob took the courtesy car to the grocery store - he complained that they only had one tomato. SEA BONDS wants to get underway early, and he can't leave until BUENA SUERTE leaves, and STEEL MAGNOLIA is sticking out a little behind them, so STEEL MAGNOLIA has to leave first, and they don't want to leave until we leave.
Riverside

Riverside


We took the courtesy car to Riverside Restaurant for dinner after first saying hello to the owner's scarlet macaw which was sitting out on the railing in front of the store. We both had ribeye, which was good, but was too much to eat. They had sweet potato muffins. The waitress brought us both sweet tea. Bob has decided that he likes to put his own sweetening in, so we were both unhappy. We were driven back to the marina by a young guy who looked as if he'd been working as a dishwasher. I got an orange popsicle from the store.

We are going to Oriental tomorrow, and so is almost everyone else except FARAWAY who is going home to New Bern. I'd like to get there ahead of the group. So we want to leave early. We didn't use the heater as it wasn't cold.

Tuesday 10 April 2001

A work boat named CAPTAINS TABLE came in in the wee hours of the morning and tied up to C dock face dock, but left the engine running. They left about 6:30 It woke Bob up. He went up to the bathroom about 6:10, and we started the motor and cast off. Bob yelled at me because I turned out too quickly and ran the dinghy into the pilings of the pier.
Swing bridge

Swing bridge


He put the dodger up because it was full of condensation and we couldn't see anything. There was an almost full moon high in the sky, and the sun was very red in the east, behind clouds. When we got about to the fixed bridge, CHANGE OF HEART passed us. We both have our running lights on because the sun is up, but not very authoritative yet.

I cooked bacon for Bob for breakfast, but he likes it dry and tasteless so he says I haven't cooked it enough. I cook myself a potato from last night with cheese. STEEL MAGNOLIA passes us about 8:20. I see other boats behind us, but can't identify them. We have the headsail out sometimes, but the wind is light and flakey.

BUENA SUERTE apparently hit something, and went into Schooner's Creek to see what the problem was. SEA BONDS said they heeled over and stopped. Got into Morehead City about 10:30. An Army landing craft came out of the back inlet of Morehead City about the time we were going up the channel, and then apparently turned around and went back in.

KNOTTY GIRL passes us in Adams Creek, and then stops and we pass them. Then they pass us again and they go off down the Neuse River. I later hear them on the radio talking to the CG - they are in some kind of trouble where the CG is asking them about having their PFDs on, and what the wave height and visibility are.

SUNCHASER is tying up in Beaufort NC.

We hear the CG on the radio advising that the Alligator Pungo Canal is being closed for April 10 to April 12 to allow the removal of an old bridge. The barge is going to be across the channel. People are discussing what to do about this. We would reach that point on April 12. Some people decide to go out and around in Pamlico sound. Maybe that is what KNOTTY GIRL was doing. In any case, where there is plenty of water there is a bridge that is only 47 feet, and where there is a 65 foot bridge, the water is skinny. So that's not really an option for us.

GOOSE CHASE and STEEL MAGNOLIA are going to Whittaker's Marina where we went last fall. THey've made arrangements to meet at M&M's Cafe for dinner. There is a little trawler named FANCY FREE behind us, and she passes and goes into Oriental. We follow. As we get into the harbor they call and ask for a slip. We wait until they are tied up and then we go into our slip.

We are OK as long as we are out of the end of the pier - closer to shore it is less than 5 feet. We have TV and phone at the slip. We are tied up by 2:10 after 829 nm. 48.9 miles at 6.5 mph. Max speed of 8.4 mph
M and M Cafe in 2002

M and M Cafe in 2002


I have the radio on (we have TV and phone in the slip too), and hear that someone has gone aground in Adams Creek. They tell us there are no moon tides here, just wind tides. Bob walks up the grocery store to get salt. SEA BONDS comes in about 4. I go up to get a shower and test the water in the pool - it is cool.

Wednesday 11 April 2001

We ate dinner last night with George and Judy from SEA BONDS. They were supposed to meet up with the folks from GOOSE CHASE at the M&M Cafe, but since it was closed, they didn't do that.

This morning, the inverter that powers the computers off of 12 volt refused to supply any power, and also the GPS is suddenly not sending signals to the computer. Bob ignores the problem, thinking that I am not doing it right, and we get underway anyway. SEA BONDS has left ahead of us, but we are faster than they are and soon are ahead of them, heading out into the great unknown with no computer charts.

After trying to fix it in the cockpit, I take the computer down and put in on the nav table and try it there. Eventually, I try the dead reckoning function, but it is not as good as real time.
No wake - CG station in Hobucken

No wake - CG station in Hobucken

Fixed bridge in Hobucken

Fixed bridge in Hobucken


We cross the Neuse River and go up the canal and down Goose Creek. We see a CSY walk-through on a side tributary of Goose Creek. It has a blue stripe and bimini cover, but it won't answer our hail on the radio. JANET ANN passes as we exit Goose Creek. SUNDANCER and GOOSE CHASE pass about 1 to 1:30 in the Pungo River. GOOSE CHASE goes to Dowery Creek Marina, but SUNDANCER goes on ahead hoping to be able to get past the point where the Fairfield bridge is being removed.

We go into Dowery Creek also, but SEA BONDS goes up to the head of the canal to anchor so that can get through early in the morning. We have done 51.9 miles at 6.4 mph for a total of 874 nm.

Also in the marina in addition to GOOSE CHASE is a power boat called OLIVER'S TWIST - named after the owner's race horse. They have a nice lounge with satellite TV like Rob and Barb have. The only problem with that is that the weather channel doesn't have any local weather. There is a pool, and a pay phone, and they let me do e-mail in the office.

Two couples (us and Charlie and his wife of OLIVER'S TWIST - she doesn't make anything for dinner but reservations) took the courtesy car in to the Helmsman to have dinner. The directions only go one direction - they assume you can get back. We couldn't. We saw a lot of deer in the fields at dusk. Charlie, who drove, wanted to get gas for the car, but we couldn't find a gas station. So another couple who wanted to go to the market (a trawler named KAREFREE) had to do it. Charlie stays most of the winter in Daytona and says he likes bike week even tho it is noisy (motorcycles), and race week, but that black college reunion week has the greatest concentration of cops he's ever seen. THey truck in 400 state troopers from all over the state he said.

Thursday 12 April 2001

We left early, but GOOSE CHASE, OLIVER'S TWIST, and KAREFREE all left first. Bob pulled out the jib, and I made breakfast.
Speed boat going the other direction

Speed boat going the other direction


12-0800.jpgAlligator Pungo canal

Alligator Pungo canal


We got to the Fairfield swing bridge barge before 10, and went through after a workboat crossed in front of us. I took photos. A man standing next to the crane whistled or shouted at me and I looked over and he gestured to indicate that the crane operator was a women.Old Fairfield bridge

Old Fairfield bridge

Looking through the dodger at the old bridge

Looking through the dodger at the old bridge

Crane against the sun

Crane against the sun

Looking back at the new and old Fairfield bridge and construction crane

Looking back at the new and old Fairfield bridge and construction crane

Alligator Pungo canal with the end of the old bridge in 2003

Alligator Pungo canal with the end of the old bridge in 2003


New Fairfield bridge 2003

New Fairfield bridge 2003

Fairfield canal anchorage

Fairfield canal anchorage

Reflections

Reflections


Bob insisted on pulling out the main and jib, and rigging a whisker pole. JANET ANN passed while he was going this, and a catamaran named ALGERNON. As Bob gave up on the whisker pole, a dive boat named DEEP ADVENTURE passed and rocked us violently with their wake. I called ALGERNON on the radio to warn him (not that he needed it as a catamaran doesn't rock that much - really more to complain to DEEP ADVENTURE). We see several planes that Bob IDs as F16s and wonders where they are from that would be local.

We pull out the sails again and sail down the Alligator - actually turn the engine off. Finally have to turn it on again and pull in the sails when we see the bridge.
Tug and Dredge on the Alligator River in 2003

Tug and Dredge on the Alligator River in 2003


We see SEA BONDS ahead of us, and he goes through the Alligator River swing bridge.
Alligator River Swing Bridge

Alligator River Swing Bridge


We are going to the Alligator River Marina, but SEA BONDS is worried about the weather tomorrow - supposed to be thunderstorms, and he is worried he won't be able to cross Albemarle Sound. So he goes on across, while we stop. We get 35 gals of diesel, and tie up after 49 miles at 7.0 mph. Our max speed was 8.8 mph.
Alligator River Marina from the river

Alligator River Marina from the river


I called Rob and told him we were at a truck stop, and that's what it was. The bathrooms and showers were nice, but the washers only had cold water so we will wait until tomorrow to do the wash, and the lights were on a timer so Bob was in there taking a long hot shower and they went out leaving him in the dark. They have a data port for 800#s.
Aerial photo of the marina on the wall of the restaurant

Aerial photo of the marina on the wall of the restaurant


We had dinner here at the truck stop. The menu was limited but the food was good, and the promised riverfront dining actually did have tables that looked out toward the bridge so we could watch the river, and also the people coming in to the marina, some of whose docking maneuvers provided a lot of amusement for us. One guy in a small trawler with two engines AND bowthursters couldn't turn around to get fuel and was stuck across the channel keeping a catamaran sailboat from getting in. I thought for sure there's be a collision. But there wasn't.

The water in the river outside the marina breakwaters was really rough, but all was nice and calm where we were.

They also give you a morning paper, and they have real ice cream for cones (about 8 flavors). I had one when we got in and one after dinner.

Along the side where we were spaced a couple slips apart was a small motor boat named AUGUST MOON from Galesville, which was there for 3 days, and then a trawler came in named LADY MARU, and then the incompetent guy with multi crew and engines and bowthrusters named FIRST TEE, and then us, and then the catamaran that came in behind FIRST TEE, named FIRENZE, a Packet Cat from Norfolk. He really rocked and rolled much more than I thought a catamaran would. There was another power boat at the end. The big yacht named MOVIN ON was on the face dock.

Friday the 13th.

FIRST TEE, and MOVIN ON were underway early. FIRENZE pulled out ahead of us. Bob unhooked us and brought the paper they had delivered off the dock, and we pulled out before 7. SEA BONDS had worried about forecast thunderstorms for this afternoon, so I worried too. We heard him on the radio, and apparently he anchored in Broad Creek. He had about a 10 minute rainstorm this morning.
Crossing Albemarle Sound to Coinjock

Crossing Albemarle Sound to Coinjock


Bob pulled out the jib, and then the main (breaking a piece off the furler), and we sailed across Albemarle sound. The front did come through, and Bob failed to take in the sails as we were going pretty fast. Then when we got across, it was hard to get them in.

It spit a little rain, but not much and there were some dark clouds, but the weather wasn't really too bad. The wind was gusting up to 26 knots in the river, but after we got across and into the upper reaches of the river it died down. I saw a (presumably) male osprey fly in and sit on top of a female osprey on top of a nest.

We got to Coinjock and tied up at the marina in front of SEA BONDS by about 12:30 after 36.4 miles at 6.4 mph.

At Coinjock, FIRENZE was at the marina across the way. We signed in and had lunch at the restaurant. Judy of SEA BONDS was doing a wash, and Bob did one after her. They were painting the ladies room/shower, so none of us ladies could go. I went and downloaded e-mail in the office. They had a table and a place for a connection. While I was sitting there the owner started to talk about the fact that he had a $90 (or $900 - don't remember which) citation for selling tobacco to a minor. The state police used a 17 year old woman recruit, and he was particularly upset about the fact that she was taller than some male acquaintance, and had 'big tits'. I'm guessing he was distracted by that so he didn't ask for ID. Serves him right
Coinjock docks

Coinjock docks


A big power boat was on the dock ahead of us, and one behind SEA BONDS, and then a really big one behind that. We had dinner at the restaurant, and had the 32 oz prime rib for two, which of course we couldn't finish. It was $29.00. We saved it and had it for lunch the next day, and I had it the day after too.
Coinjock Restaurant

Coinjock Restaurant

Prime Rib from the restaurant website and inset of the leftover box

Prime Rib from the restaurant website and inset of the leftover box


We had cable here, but it didn't have a lot of channels. Couldn't get the weather channel at all.

Saturday 14 April 2001

We left about 7. Bob decided to have me drive, and he would push the bow out and then have me drive out into the channel while he cast off the stern lines. That way we'd just go out around the power boat ahead. SEA BONDS started his motor, and cast off before us, so the first glitch was that he was out in the channel where we were going. The second glitch was that Bob didn't need to push the bow out because the current pushed it away from the pier without him doing anything. So I yelled at him not to push it, and he yelled at me not to hit SEA BONDS.

The marina gave us a list of the bridges and how far they were. Unfortunately, the list, and the chart mileages weren't too accurate either. We got to the first one - North Landing Bridge in time for the noon opening. Actually, if we had known that it was closer than 30 miles, we could have speeded up and gotten there at 11:30. A power boat called DOUBLE DIPPER went through ahead of us. The next bridge (the Centerville Turnpike Bridge) was supposed to be 5 miles, but was really only 3 and a bit.
1058652-001.jpgCenterville turnpike swing bridge

Centerville turnpike swing bridge


We could not make 5 miles in half an hour, but we could have done 3. However, all the charts said 5 miles, and so we didn't try and went through on the 1:00 pm opening. Saw a CSY Walkthrough named HOMEFREE tied up on the free docks before the bridge.
Homefree

Homefree

14-1253.jpgHomefree

Homefree

Our next obstacle was the Great Bridge Bridge and Great Bridge Lock. THe lock did one locking an hour and the GBB coordinates with it. There were 3 of us sailboats, a catamaran called CADENZA, us and SEA BONDS, who had caught up with us at the bridge (George of SEA BONDS said - the tortoise catches the hare to Bob and laughed). I wasn't quite able to see how the lock could just open once an hour and still do both south and northbound vessels. The way it actually worked was that the bridge called the lock and told them what was coming north, and the lock told him who was coming south. When all the southbound vessels got there, the bridge opened
Great Bridge Bridge

Great Bridge Bridge


Then the northbound vessels went directly into the lock.
14-1107.jpgGreat Bridge Lock

Great Bridge Lock


CADENZA was in front, and then us and then SEA BONDS. All the various power boats were on the port side. The port side is the only side with fenders built in. This lock
Us behind CADENZA in the lock

Us behind CADENZA in the lock

SEA BONDS behind us

SEA BONDS behind us


Opposite side of the lock

Opposite side of the lock


only goes up about 2-3 feet though so the fenders weren't stressed that much.
Leaving the lock

Leaving the lock


Highway bridge

Highway bridge

Sign showing opening times

Sign showing opening times

Sign for Dismal Swamp entrance

Sign for Dismal Swamp entrance

Mothball fleet?

Mothball fleet?


Now we had only 3 more bridges - Steel Bridge, Gilmerton Bridge and the Jordon Lift bridge. All 3 of us sailboats went through the Steel bridge with no problem. CADENZA didn't want to go first, and Bob decided that since we were all going to wait for whoever was slowest (i.e. SEA BONDS) that we should stay behind him. So Bob took up station beside him and was his wing man.
Old Navy ships in Norfolk

Old Navy ships in Norfolk


Because it was Sat. there were no restricted opening schedules for rush hour, so we didn't expect any problems. However, when we got to the Gilmerton bridge, the tender said they were having problems with the bridge, and there was a barge coming our way.

So we circled for about a half an hour. I think the problem was the traffic gates, which were down and traffic was being held. Then the gates went up and traffic went. He didn't open the bridge until the barge was ready for it. In addition to us, SEA BONDS, and CADENZA, there was a boat with a green hull that had been tied to a dock near the bridge and some power boats.

There was a barge coming up behind us, which I saw, but Bob didn't. Someone called us on the radio, and I heard it and Bob didn't - so I yelled at him to move over.
Looking up the tower of a Lift Bridge in Norfolk

Looking up the tower of a Lift Bridge in Norfolk


I had called Waterside for a reservation, and after we went through the Jordon Lift Bridge, they said to come into the first port slip. I had figured incorrectly where the marina was, but we did find it and get tied up. SEA BONDS was one slip over with a power boat between us.
Our boat in Waterside

Our boat in Waterside


Waterside is a big mall type place and they have Hooters, and a food court etc. I took that rather than Tidewater Yacht across the way because I thought TY was too big and too far to walk. Waterside is more compact, and a little cheaper too. We came in about 4:30 after 49.3 miles at 5.6 mph (maximum 7.5 mph) for a total of 991 nautical miles.

It was pretty hectic. Lots of power boaters partying on the docks behind their boats. Drinking and loud music. The cable didn't work. They gave us ice for free because the bags had melted the cubes together - or maybe he just didn't want to bother collecting change. THey let me download email in the office.

We had dinner at Gillians, which is apparently one of those video games places. Bob said it was too cold to sit outside. I had barbecue meatloaf and he had ribs.

Sunday 15 April 2001

I was worried about the weather on Monday because afternoon thunderstorms were forecast, so we only went as far as mile 189.0. We went to SOUTHALL MARINA, which is in the same inlet as Salt Ponds.
Marina is on far side of channel #28 in map

Marina is on far side of channel #28 in map


We went in almost at low tide, and the depth sounder went off a couple of times, but nothing serious - just a little under 7 feet. I picked this marina because it was closer to the inlet than Salt Ponds, and I thought it would be cheaper, which it was. They have a pool (which isn't open yet) and a sauna in each bathroom. They have a courtesy car and a free internet connection. We tied up there by 10:30 after 18..8 miles at 7 mph with a maximum of 9.3 mph. We passed 1000 nm - were at 1008 nm total when we stopped.
Where we were going to eat

Where we were going to eat


There is a restaurant at Salt Ponds, across the way, and we were going to dinghy over, so we put the dinghy in the water and put the motor on it. But it started to rain so we ate on the boat. The wind did pick up, but there were no thunderstorms.

Monday 16 April 2001 - A Storm Not Forecast

Winds were forecast to be 15-20 knots decreasing to 10 with 2 foot waves. We could deal with that. But, when we got out into the bay, it was indeed 20 knot winds, but instead of decreasing the winds got stronger. Bob cooked bacon for himself for breakfast, which made me nervous because I thought he would burn himself.
1242135.jpgLeaving Southall Marina

Leaving Southall Marina

Leaving Southall Marina

Leaving Southall Marina


Later, I saw one gust up to 31 knots. And the waves got bigger and bigger and were very close together. I estimate 8 feet. We were only doing about 2 knots over the ground against the wind. The boat was rearing up, banging down into a wave trough and green water was washing back with considerable spray back to the dodger. We had the dinghy on the davits with the motor on it, and the solar panel mounted on the brace between the davits. The solar panel was torn off with the brace and disappeared which made the dinghy bang around because the brace was gone. Bob kept having to go back (clipped to jacklines) to re-secure the dinghy.
Track when we lost the solar panel

Track when we lost the solar panel


Anyway, we had been going to go to the Windmill Resort (whose answering machine message said they were open at 7, but I called them on the phone at 7:20 and was on hold for 5 minutes and no one answered), but I lobbied for going in the York River instead. So we did. But it took us 4 hours to get into the York RIver enough for the waves to decrease.

The closest marina is COOK'S LANDING. It is five miles closer to the Chesapeake than the next marina in Sarah Creek.
Sarah Creek (#25 on the map)

Sarah Creek (#25 on the map)


I tried to call them on the radio but they didn't answer. Finally called on the phone. He assigned us a dock, and said he'd come out to help, but he didn't. The directions to the slips are posted on the end of the first pier (closest to the York River). We had gone 25.8 nm at an average speed of 3.5 knots and a maximum speed (probably while going downwind backwards while Bob was doing the dinghy) of 9.5 knots.
RosalieAnn when it had two solar panels

RosalieAnn when it had two solar panels


COOK'S LANDING is easy to get into from the York River but they don't cater to transients at that time of year. It is very protected from all directions of weather with water depths of up to seven feet. They have a pool (not open yet), showers (open all the time - not locked), fuel, ice, marine supplies and snacks. There's nothing else here and they are very casual. The distance is too great and the roads are too narrow (without any shoulders) to even ride a bike to somewhere else to get groceries. The only place to eat near here is the bait shack, but currently there is a guy and his wife running it who make everything from scratch, including subs, (Philly cheese steak, meatball etc) and they also do hamburgers (ground round) and chicken with dumplings. The problem is that we could never tell when they would be open
Chart of our route to COOK'S Landing marina

Chart of our route to COOK'S Landing marina


We will probably not leave until Thurs as weather is going to be bad until then.

Finally

There have been a few complaints because I didn't email the last bit of the trip. So here it is.

We didn't go on Tuesday 17 April We were too shaken, and the weather was still not good. I got an email that we have a new granddaughter who was born today.

On Wednesday 18 April, even in the marina the winds were 20 knots, and a delivery crew came in because they were getting beat up in the bay. (Delivery crew never stop for anything - their job depends on them going as fast as possible.)

Wednesday night was cold, so when Bob got off the boat to go up and shave, he slipped on the ice at the dripping water connection, and his foot went off the edge of the dock, scraping all the skin off his shin and almost falling in.

Thursday April 19, 2001

We cast off, somewhat nervously, hoping to get to Deltaville. Actually, we made good time, and bypassed Deltaville (called on the phone to cancel) and went to CHESAPEAKE BOAT BASIN doing 39.9 nm. It is up Indian Creek off Fleet Bay. Very convenient to the Bay and easy to get to with 12 feet approach depth at low tide. We had 9.5 ft in the slip at low tide. You go in to marker #12 and the marina is on your port. There are grain silos behind the marina that you can see from down the creek. The distance in to the entrance to the creek is 1.7 nm and the distance up the creek to the marina is 2.8 nm. The bathrooms/showers are gorgeous - sparkling clean and newly decorated. There is a lounge with cable TV and an internet connection and a marine store which is pretty well stocked.

They will call a restaurant who will pick you up for dinner. The town (2 traffic lights) is about a mile and a half down the road if you want to walk. There is a little museum there. We went to the Chesapeake Cafe, and the marina guy was having dinner there too (I think an Elks meeting or something) and he brought us back.

The guy who bought the marina is much nicer than the grumpy old man who used to be here, and is upgrading the marina as fast as he can - putting in new docks etc. (fixed docks).

Friday 20 April, 2001

We left very early in order to get around Smith Point before the weather deteriorated again. When we tied up in our old slip we had gone 1110 nm since we left Miami.

We borrowed the marina truck - got most of the cars started - one had to have a charger put on it for 20 minutes, and one for longer. The furnace started right up. Don't know why it went off.

When Bob turned the water back on, he forgot that he'd left the washer hoses off and he had water shooting up at the ceiling. Also the toilet downstairs cracked and has to be replaced, a faucet in the kitchen leaks badly, and an upstairs pipe came apart.

We've picked up the mail, renewed prescriptions, turned the phone back on, paid bills and mowed the lawn twice.
Bob with our new granddaughter

Bob with our new granddaughter

New granddaughter - 4 generations - my mom, me, my daughter and granddaughter

New granddaughter - 4 generations - my mom, me, my daughter and granddaughter


Also seen our newest granddaughteer who was born while we were weathered in at Cook's Landing and taken pictures,
Mothers Day - my mother and my sister

Mothers Day - my mother and my sister


visited mother, went by my office to show off my tan, put a new attic fan in for mother, mailed a calendar to Bob's brother and sister-in-law gotten a doctor's appointment, cleaned up the boat in preparation for an insurance survey Tuesday, and a bunch of other stuff.
RAtravellift0.jpgRosalieAnn in the travellift

RosalieAnn in the travellift

Bob supervising the travellift

Bob supervising the travellift

Keel from rocks in Georgia

Keel from rocks in Georgia

RosalieAnn getting washed off

RosalieAnn getting washed off


We have to get a new staysail and another solar panel.

Setting the Stage for The following year (2002)

Posted by greatgrandmaR 14:12 Archived in USA Comments (0)

Flying the Inlet

Retracing our Steps to Charleston


View 2000-01 Novices Overcoming ICW Obstacles on greatgrandmaR's travel map.

Sunday, March 11, 2001

Had a nice stay in Riviera Beach, although there is nothing around there in the way of nice places to eat.
Peanut Island opposite the marina

Peanut Island opposite the marina


Opposite the marina is Peanut Island, which is a park which can only be accessed by water. There are campgrounds, picnic spots, a brick footpath around the island, bathroom and shower facilities, swimming beaches, and a snorkeling area.

One way to get there is by kayak. There are kayak tours ($50/adult including all equipment) which include a tour of this historic former Coast Guard Station
Historic former CG station

Historic former CG station


and a nuclear fallout shelter built to protect President Kennedy in case of war during the Cuban Missile Crisis.

I took the bathroom key (don't know why there is such a thing about locked bathrooms) back at 7.

The big problem leaving was going to be current. There was a LOT of current in the slips. Plus there was wind. So we wanted to leave in the early a.m. when the wind was calm, and close to high tide. But high tide was not until 9:30, so we had to try to get out before then.

Everything went well. Bob got the lines singled up, and after he explained again to me which way I was supposed to be backing (he had the wheel preset), we just backed nicely out with the wind pushing us back out of the slip.

Going out the inlet, the current was against us because the tide was still coming in. And it was SUNDAY so all the crazy powerboater/fishermen were coming out the inlet. The little boats were not a problem - although one of them stopped and bought bait from a bait boat IN the inlet. But the big sportsfishermen came out pushing half the water ahead of them, and they'd pass us on each side, and their wake tossed us around like a cork.
08-949.jpgNorth of the Lake Worth Breakwater

North of the Lake Worth Breakwater


After we got out of the inlet, Bob put up the sails, but the wind was flakey and light, so we motorsailed because I figured that it was 55 nm to the Ft. Pierce inlet and we couldn't just lollygag around waiting on the wind. I talked to Laura on the phone (she has her CSY JOURNEY in the marina that we are going to), and she said it often took her 18 hours to make the trip - we didn't have that long. The day was relatively uneventful. We motorsailed north for 8 hours. Except for about 50 to 75 fishing boats outside Jupiter inlet, we saw few other boats.

Then it was time to come into the Ft. Pierce inlet.

PLAY LOUD OMINOUS MUSIC

We lined up with the entrance range. There were large close together waves on our quarter, pushing us forward. There was a lot of current (when we started it was 4.2 knots, but as time went on it got a little less) coming OUT against us and the waves. And the wind was blowing 90 degrees to the channel.

Bob surfed into the channel. He said it was like trying to land a plane in a thunderstorm - you are never exactly where you are supposed to be but are always going through that place on the way to somewhere else. Bob says he isn't going to do any more inlets. All others were a piece of cake compared to this one.

After we got in between the breakwaters, the waves abated a little bit, and we just had the current to fight. Bob made me take the wheel while he took down the sails and put out the docklines. We went into the marina and got fuel, and then went to a slip. We went 52 nm at 5.6 knots - took only 9.5 hours. After we tied up in Ft. Pierce, we had dinner at the restaurant there, and it was pretty good.

COSMOS (a CSY) is here also in addition to JOURNEY. Also Fred and Sharon's boat DOLPHIN is here. Laura came down to the marina prior to leaving for the Bahamas, and we went on board JOURNEY and talked to her.
Journey from across the marina

Journey from across the marina


I ran out of film, so didn't get any interior pictures, but the boat looks just like on the website.

Monday, March 12, 2001

Fog

Fog


We decided the weather was too bad to continue, so we stayed another day. Bob went up to the bathroom in the morning, and a little later I heard a loud splash. I thought maybe he'd fallen in. I looked out and saw some pelicans, and I saw a large jack next to the boat. Bob went over and left a note on DOLPHIN, and I took outside pictures of both COSMOS
Cosmos bow

Cosmos bow

Cosmos winch for the anchor

Cosmos winch for the anchor


Cosmos with RIB on the foredeck

Cosmos with RIB on the foredeck

Cosmos cockpit and bimini

Cosmos cockpit and bimini

Cosmos fender board

Cosmos fender board


12-1736.jpgChain plate

Chain plate


and JOURNEY.
Journey - bow with green trailboards

Journey - bow with green trailboards

Journey anchor winch

Journey anchor winch

Netting on the lifelines

Netting on the lifelines

12-1738a.jpg12-1738b.jpg

A couple came in on the other side of the dock in a pretty dark green boat. I talked to the lady who said it was their first sailboat. They bought it in Annapolis, and went down to Hilton Head where they lived - but it was too cold so she was going south until it was warm. They were both 74, but had only been married a couple of months. She said she didn't cook, because her first husband had been rich enough to hire cooks, and her 2nd husband owned a restaurant. This was her third husband and he was a retired doctor.

We ate at the restaurant again, but she said she didn't want to eat the same place twice. Bob walked over to the supermarket. We went down to the pier where DOLPHIN was and had lunch at the little snack bar there. I wanted to swim in the pool, but just didn't get a chance.

We had to get a splitter for the electricity (to change from 50 amp service which most power boats have to 30 amp), which they wanted a charge card slip for in case we walked off with it. It costs over $150 - the slip I signed said that we could not keep it more than a week. DItto the bathroom key. Cable TV is free. THey have an outside hookup for computer/e-mail and it can be used even when they are closed. Folks are very nice, and are open early and late.

Tuesday, March 13, 2001

We left Ft. Pierce on the 13th and went to Melbourne where we anchored north of the bridge.
Eau Galle bridge from the shore taken another year

Eau Galle bridge from the shore taken another year


There was only one other person there (a power boat way down south of us), and we spent a peaceful calm night.

Wednesday 14 March, 2001

The next morning we had a very quick trip from Melbourne to Titusville sailing with the head sails. The wind was starting to kick up and we pulled the sails down before we got to Titusville. We got fuel first and then went to a slip. We had done 40.8 miles at 6.9 mph for a total since we left Miami of 201 nm.
Titusville park

Titusville park


We walked all the way over to the KFC for lunch (about a half mile). Then I went up and downloaded email, and Bob did a wash. Talked to a guy from MD in Titusville that we had met at Oceanside Marina in Key West.
08-937.jpgGreen_Heron_on_dockline

Green_Heron_on_dockline


We decided to go to Dixie Crossroads for dinner, but it was too far to walk. So we called a cab. When we got to DIxie Crossroads, the parking lot was chock full and there was also a tour bus there, and lots of people waiting to be seated. So we asked the taxi driver to take us somewhere else. We ended up paying over $14 in cab fare ($10 on the way back), and eating at Steve's Diner.
Steve's Diner

Steve's Diner


Steve's restaurant from the outside

Steve's restaurant from the outside


This was not a fancy place - good plain food and quick service. I paid $4.95 for spaghetti and meatballs and $1.00 for iced tea and $1.50 for pie. Bob had a slightly more expensive entre - $6.95 for seafood dinner, which included 2 vegetables. Then we had to get a cab back to the marina.

Thursay March 15, 2001 Leaving Titusville

We left Titusville early the next morning. Bob worked out that if he backed up that the bow would swing out to starboard. But it didn't, so I took a boat hook and pulled the bow over to that side, and after that it was easy.

We wanted to get through the Haulover canal before the wind picked up because the channel on the west side is very skinny (depth and width). When we went through it before, it was pouring rain, and we had a couple of tanks on the west shore to line up as an informal range. This time they would be behind us (and more difficult to see). But this time it was no problem.
Birds on an island approaching the Haulover Canal

Birds on an island approaching the Haulover Canal


When we went by New Smyrna Beach, there was no one on the transient dock, and I was tempted to stop, but we wanted to try to be in St. Augustine by Saturday so we didn't. Saw a fancy house with bright yellow walls and also with bright yellow tiles on the roof. Also had a bright yellow pool house.

When we went through near Ponce Inlet the depth alarm went off a couple of times. There was a boat anchored in Rockhouse Creek. I made lunch and brought it to Bob. A little later he asked if I had the teakettle on. He was hearing some birds that were flying across the bow whistling.

We passed the 7 Seas Marina and noted that all the north docks were empty.
16-1321a.jpgComing opposite 7 Seas Marina

Coming opposite 7 Seas Marina

Red marker at entrance to 7 Seas

Red marker at entrance to 7 Seas


We got to Daytona Beach and were tied up by 2 pm after 48.1 miles at 6.8 mph for a total of 243 nm.

The marina (Halifax Harbor - which was on the Halifax River and was the municipal marina) gave us a T head tie up right in front of a little clorox bottle type power boat from NC. The dock guy came around in a boat to take our money and help tie us up.
RosalieAnn in Halifax Harbor Marina in 2002

RosalieAnn in Halifax Harbor Marina in 2002


They gave us funny keys sort of like dog tags with an arrow on one side.
uImage114.jpgKey and Key inserted in the lock

Key and Key inserted in the lock


Lock - arrow to insert the key and purple arrow for the way to turn it

Lock - arrow to insert the key and purple arrow for the way to turn it


To operate the gates you had to put the 'key' into a slot with the arrow facing you and turn a round flat knob. They told us that if we left during the day, we could drive the boat by the fuel dock and someone would hold a net out for us to drop them into!!! Fortunately we didn't have to try that, as we left about 6:30 and the security guard came for them. There is an internet connection near the bathrooms and there is cable TV.

There is still a West Marine on the property as advertised, but there are NO restaurants anywhere close (the ones in the West Marine buildings have closed), and the map they gave us which showed Rosarios (which was the closest off the property from where we were on C dock) was NOT where it was shown on the map. It was a long walk, and we went several blocks in the wrong direction.
xImage152.jpgRosarios

Rosarios


The restaurant proved to be in a small B&B or 'historical' Inn (with several varieties of aluminum siding on the outside), and was Italian. The food was OK but a bit expensive. I had lasagna.

Friday 16 March 2001 - Going to St. Augustine

The bridge right next to the marina was restricted in opening and did not open during the rush hour. So that was why we left so early the next morning. Casting off was not a problem, and we went through the bridge before the openings were restricted.
5811cdd0-e86a-11e9-bcc1-ab9803b9a4b7.jpgVeteran's Memorial Bridge

Veteran's Memorial Bridge


The next bridge of 4 was permanently open while they were building the second high fixed span. The third bridge was opening on request and the 4th one had already been replaced with a fixed bridge.

We saw a house next to the ICW where all the palm trees had purple (either paint or wound with fabric) up about 10 feet on the trunks. We are seeing more great blue and little blue herons and also some snowy egrets.
Boat on land

Boat on land


There is a large ketch from Montreal which has been behind us, but was slowly catching up to us.
Following us

Following us


He was behind us yesterday, and must have stopped somewhere behind us, and he's behind us again, although he is slowly reeling us in. Four power boats went by him, and he was yawing and pitching wildly in their wake. They went by us too. We have the sail up to steady us though, and we don't pitch as much.
16-1210a.jpg16-1221a.jpg
He eventually catches us, and we follow him through the Matanzas Inlet,
17-1304a.jpgComing to the Matanzas Inlet

Coming to the Matanzas Inlet

17-1306a.jpgFort Matanzas

Fort Matanzas


Dredging operation - Matanzas inlet

Dredging operation - Matanzas inlet


and don't go aground although the alarm goes off a couple of times. The TowBoatUS guy that appears to be stationed here permanently is fishing from his boat. A boat with a round bow that looks like a little tug named CLOONFUSH passes us. It has a medallion figurehead lion on the front.
17-1438.jpgCupula on the Victorian house on shore

Cupula on the Victorian house on shore


The municipal marina in St. Augustine has no room for us, so I get an reservation at Oyster Cove, which is up the San Sebastian River. He takes my credit card number over the phone and says if we don't get there by 4 pm there won't be anyone to help us tie up. He gives us our slip assignment on the T head of A dock right behind a big schooner. We arrive at 3:30 after 53.4 miles at 6.2 mph after 289 nm.

When we arrived at the marina, they were having a farewell party/barbeque for a boat a couple of slips over from us, so the dock master was there to help us, although we already knew where our slip was. I went up to the office, but they'd already charged my credit card, and she just gave me the restroom combinations and some stuff on restaurants. The weather was clouding up and started to really look like rain and was getting windy.

When I got back to the boat the Canadians on CARELLEN were there talking to Bob. We met them at the Dismal Swamp Visitor's Center and again in Oriental. They had taken a sabbatical (they are teachers) and were home schooling their boys who were 7th and 9th grade. Last December, they had just gone under the 312 bridge (near the entrance to the San Sebastian River) when their engine became inoperative - the boys rushed up on deck - Dad the cabin's full of smoke. So the tow boat towed them into Oyster Cove at 8 knots. (The dad said - why not go a little faster and then I can water ski.)

They decided just to spend the winter, so when his father died, they flew back to Canada and brought a car down. They will then have the boat shipped back to Canada this summer. They were offering help and a car if we needed it. Bob wanted to get ice as the refrigeration compressor doesn't seem to be working, and the dock master told us that we could just get our own ice from the ice machine but Bob didn't want to do that as he wanted a bag to have it in. So they drove him across the street to get ice.

I called Steve Silverman (of SHEPARD'S REST) and he said he'd finish up what he was doing and come over. He came and we went to a restaurant down US 1 (we were right next to it). It was St. Patrick's Day weekend and the restaurant was packed. We ended up eating on the deck next to the fire but even then we about froze. It was hit or miss service. There was a live band. I had ribs and took some home. Then we went back to the boat and talked until almost 1 am.
Restaurant from the water in 2002

Restaurant from the water in 2002

Saturday 17 March 2001

Sunday, Steve came back and we had lunch at the little restaurant around the corner (very good food, good service and cheap but only does breakfast or lunch),
Theo's for breakfast or lunch

Theo's for breakfast or lunch


and then went over to Green Cove Springs (south of Jacksonville) and saw his boat and talked about it until 5 pm.
Bow of Shepherd's Rest

Bow of Shepherd's Rest

Looking up at the bow

Looking up at the bow

Keel

Keel

Keel

Keel

Rudder

Rudder

Mast

Mast

End of the mast

End of the mast

Steve and Bob

Steve and Bob


It rained pretty heavily all day and was cold. Then we drove back and had dinner at the Gypsy Cab Company on the beach.
Gypsy Cab Company Restaurant

Gypsy Cab Company Restaurant


Steve was very impressed with the fact that they didn't have iceburg lettuce in the salads. I thought the food was good and the service also. The specials are different every night and the waitress has to tell them to you orally. I don't remember exactly what I had because I didn't write it down. Good eclectic food, and pretty good service too. Then Steve dropped us off at our boat. I called Norm of BANDERSNATCH and he said he'd call us tomorrow at 10.

Sunday 18 March 2001

We decided to stay 2 more days as it was supposed to be rainy and windy. Monday, it rained and was cold. I was up getting e-mail, and also having a shower at 10, and Bob turned the phone on but he was a little away from it so Norm left a message. They came over to our boat
Norm and Jan in our cockpit

Norm and Jan in our cockpit


and took us out to lunch at the A1A which is an ale house and brewery but they have sandwiches and stuff too. I had cheese soup with veggies to dip in it (sort of like fondue), and a root beer ice cream float called a black cow. They make their own root beer too.
Oyster Creek Marina at dusk

Oyster Creek Marina at dusk


They took us to the consignment shop, and to the grocery and to a specialty grocery where they had sausage that Norm liked. Norm and Jan invited us back to dinner, but I thought the weather would be too bad to get back to shore. It really blew hard all night.

Monday 19 March 2001

The next day, they came in the afternoon, and we went out to their boat for dinner.
Bridge and marina from dinghy dock

Bridge and marina from dinghy dock


They had the leftover pot roast from the day before, and Jan made a very good salad out of broccoli, raisins and red onions - dressing was mayo with apple cider vinegar. We got back to the boat about 10.

Tuesday 20 March 2001

The weather said that there was still surf on the beach from the high winds we'd had, so we weren't going out the St. Augustine inlet. I looked up the tides etc on the boat, but neglected to look up the bridge openings. I was a little slow getting started, and then I read that the Bridge of Lions only opened on the hour and half hour, but did not open at 8 am. It was now 7:10 and we didn't think we'd make the 7:30. We were right. The sun came out and illuminated the town so I took some photos.
St Augustine in the morning

St Augustine in the morning

Approaching the Bridge of Lions

Approaching the Bridge of Lions

Waiting fro the Bridge of Lions to open

Waiting fro the Bridge of Lions to open


We tried anchoring and having breakfast, but the anchor didn't set, so we ended up just circling and waiting. A motor boat named FARMER came and asked for an opening, and the bridge tender said that they were having electrical problems(!!) and might or might not open at 8:30, but that he's give us an update on the VHF. Then at 8:30, he just opened the bridge with no warning. Fortunately we were close, and got through.

We passed BANDERSNATCH at anchor and the fort. I also took a picture of the lighthouse
St Augustine lighthouse as we leave

St Augustine lighthouse as we leave

Red floater and the lighthouse

Red floater and the lighthouse


and the surf across the inlet. The winds were fairly brisk.
Surf across harbor entrance

Surf across harbor entrance

Surf across the inlet

Surf across the inlet

Floater buoy

Floater buoy


Bob had it in mind to make Fernandina Beach, but that is 62 miles and I know we'll never make it as we have current (sometimes with and sometimes against us) and the wind is too brisk to put up the jib. Eventually he puts up the staysail and we do go faster.
Another bridge

Another bridge


We came to the Palm Valley Bridge (bascule) which opens on request and we can see that they are building a new fixed bridge next to it. We also went through the McCormick Bridge OK. We went into Pablo Creek Marina and got 25 gals of diesel. Both the dock guy and I thought he said 45 gallons. We tried to get onto the T head of C dock, but the wind was blowing us off the pier and we could not get in behind the power boat that was there, so we went back and he put us on the fuel dock. (This dock is posted every 5 feet that it is for fueling only and violators will be prosecuted but there were 3 of us there.)
Pablo Creek Marina

Pablo Creek Marina


We did 37.5 miles at 5.1 mph (322 nm total) by 3:30 pm.

There was supposed to be a live country band which would be noisy at Hurricane Hatties, but we didn't hear a thing. Fuel dock was also a floating dock. Got ice. They said they had an internet connection in Building 6, but I didn't get a chance to test it. We ate there and had a Maine lobster dinner (they spelled it Main) with two little lobsters for $16.95.

Wednesday 21 March 2001

I looked up the tides and currents for the St. Johns River and determined that the later we left the better. Bob did not get that information out of what I said, and started getting ready to leave at 7:30 when I had 8:30 or 9 in mind. But it worked out OK. When we went to cast off, Bob said he'd untie the dock lines and jump back aboard (because I am unable to flip lines off of the dock), but the wind blew the bow out while he was untying the stern, and I almost had to leave him there.

The Atlantic Beach bridge was right past the marina. When we went through before there was so much current in it that there was a permanent wake. This time it was a slack water, and was easy to get through.

We crossed the St. Johns River just a little current against us, and only had to dodge one big ship. Got an opening of the Sister's Creek Bridge right away (actually he opened a little too soon). We got to Fernandina Beach by about noon, and got put on the middle dock where there is less wake problems etc. with 28.6 miles at 6.2 mph.
Fernandina docks

Fernandina docks


We tied up and went to a little sandwich place for lunch. We both had the chowder and I had a roast beef sandwich and Bob had turkey. Then we came back and listened to Herb on Southbound II thinking that we'd go outside to Charleston as it would be quicker. However Herb said we'd have to be in somewhere by Saturday night and we can't do that. Bob was very grumpy and said we'd just go inside, and I couldn't budge him from that.

We went to the Golden Grouper for dinner, and I had snapper and Bob asked for pork chops but they were out. We were kept waiting even tho we saw an empty table when we went in, and we were put at the table we saw empty eventually. Bob thinks they just make you wait because they can - not because they need to.

Thursday March 22, 2001

Tourists come by the boat sometimes and want to take their picture with it or something. Today (March 23rd) it is blowing really strong out of the north, but we didn't intend to leave today anyway. We've made a reservation at Golden Isle Marina for tomorrow.
Small ferry

Small ferry


When we left St. Augustine, we saw the same little NC power boat at the Municipal Marina as was on the dock with us at Daytona Beach.
RosalieAnn behind a charter boat

RosalieAnn behind a charter boat


At Fernandina Beach we were behind a charter fishing boat which went in and out several times. Behind us was another little NC power boat named REEL TIME, which a man and his wife were sleeping on.

We had dinner at Brett's which is the restaurant right at the marina, and to which we hadn't been before. When we were here the first time, we were too late for lunch, and though it quite expensive so didn't try at dinner. This time we came in time for lunch, but the place was packed and people were waiting for table - we didn't want to wait.

I decided however that I didn't want to walk out into town, and didn't like either the Crab Trap or the Golden Grouper enough to want to go back there, so we went up early so as not to have to wait for a table. We got there at 5, but they didn't open until 5:30. So Bob sat outside on a bench and I went to send e-mail.
Sunset

Sunset

23-1851.jpgSunset

Sunset


I had a delicious prime rib, with au jus and mashed potatoes. I saved most of the prime rib to take back to the boat. I had a lemon pound cake for dessert. Then Bob went to have one last look at one of the stores where he bought an oil lamp for an anchor light, and I went back to the boat and got a towel and shampoo and went to get a shower.

Friday 23 March 2001

We started out before 6:45 the next morning - so early I hadn't yet brushed my teeth or washed my face, although I was dressed after a fashion.

We disconnected the space heater we've been using, and unplugged the electric cord. When we left, the folks on REEL TIME waved us off. Bob has taken to casting off the dock lines off himself because he doesn't trust me to do that anymore, as I can't flip the lines off the cleats well. Then he came to the wheel and backed out while I brought the fenders inboard.

I have been putting our previous track on the electronic charts instead of doing a separate route, but we didn't do the inside route from Jekyll Island to Fernandina on the way down. So I wasn't sure I could follow the route, especially as these electronic charts don't have the ICW marked on them. (It is on the paper charts of course.)
Early morning

Early morning


So while Bob steered up the Amelia RIver, I sketched in the computer route up past Kings Bay, and then I took over steering while Bob stowed the dock lines and fixed us fried egg sandwiches. While he was getting the eggs out of the frig, his PFD suddenly inflated.

There was almost no wind. The water was like a glass reflecting the light blue and white sky. We went across the St. Mary's River (didn't see any submarines this time) and into GA's Cumberland Sound following the ranges (B, C, D, and E).
De-gaussing range

De-gaussing range


Ahead of us we saw something that looked like a gigantic racetrack starting gate (horses). It turned out to be a degaussing range. Out in front of the King's Bay Sub Base was a little Grady-White boat with a Police insignia on the side. It was just sitting there and didn't even look like there was anyone in it. But after we passed the base entrance, it went inside. The base was cordoned off with huge orange balls across the entrance - sort of like the big round fenders that power boaters use.
Submarine base

Submarine base


After we got into the river, the current, which had been pushing us up over 7 mph was against us. Saw a pair of dolphins. It got warm enough to take off our coats. Bob put up the staysail and jib, but took the jib down as there was almost no wind. We did get to see the wild horses on Cumberland Island.
Cumberland Island with wild horses

Cumberland Island with wild horses


As we crossed St. Andrew's Sound and went past Jekyll Island.
Jekyll Clubhouse

Jekyll Clubhouse


REEL TIME passed us. Then we crossed St. Simons Sound and came up to St. Simon's Island.
Bridge under construction in Brunswick

Bridge under construction in Brunswick


St Simon's Island

St Simon's Island

St Simon's Island lighthouse

St Simon's Island lighthouse


I had my leftover prime rib for lunch, and Bob had lettuce and tomato sandwiches. Bob went to take down the staysail and put out the lines, and I got in too shallow so he had to come back. I called the Golden Isles Marina, and found out that we were supposed to be on a range.
Golden Isle Marina where the big RED X is

Golden Isle Marina where the big RED X is


We got into the marina by 1:45 pm after 41.5 miles at 6.7 mph, for a total of 382 nm. We were tied up right behind REEL TIME.
Waterside restaurant with a free dock

Waterside restaurant with a free dock


I was allowed 2 minutes in the dockmaster's office to download e-mail. We went up to Steamers (the restaurant) for dinner. I wrote my grandson a post card (one that I got free from the Daytona Beach marina) and mailed it by putting it into the restaurant's mailbox. Hope he gets it. I had grits and shrimp, and Bob had stuffed shrimp. All very good, but they didn't have any butter for the bread, or any ice cream for the cobbler.

Saturday 24 March 2001

The next morning, they gave us a Sunday paper (the Atlanta Journal-Constitution) and two muffins. We got underway early. Bob said to drive out and then turn around as he cast off. I turned too early for him and almost swung my stern into the boat behind us.

Went back out to the ICW and up the Mackay River and across Buttermilk Sound. Got a boost from the tide for awhile - we were doing 9 mph at one point. Called our son to let him know we wouldn't be coming in that day because we didn't go outside. He said it was raining in Charleston. It was getting cloudier, and the wind picked up so I put the side curtain down on the port side. It didn't start to rain though until after noon. I can see the rain drops on the water because there is so little wind.

There is a tern following us. He flies along behind us up to the radar, ducks to port, swoops back to starboard, and then circles around behind us again. Evidently he is prospecting our wake for fish, and he can't fly as slowly as we are going. There are several of them now, and every so often I see one catch a little minnow type fish.
Barrier island

Barrier island


We get to Sapalo Sound about 1:15. Across the sound, we are going to go up into the Wahoo River to anchor. I put a route on the computer last night to indicate that, but stowed it, and it isn't there now, so Bob is going up the wrong side. He goes up to take down the staysail and prepare the anchor while I steer across the shoals, some of which are exposed as it is low tide. There is a little power boat sitting out on the mud flats waiting for the tide to pick him up.
Anchorage in the Wahoo

Anchorage in the Wahoo


Bob complained that the place I wanted to anchor was too far away from the ICW, so we anchored right at the mouth of the river. I was able to call our daughter on the bag phone, because there is no signal on the ATT phone. We anchored after 50.4 miles at 6.6 mph by 2:40 pm after a total of 426 nm. Then we sat in the cockpit and read the Sunday paper. The sun came out. The boat swung with the tide, which picked up the little power boat.

We could get several TV stations really well, and watched ice skating for a bit. Then I turned on NPR and we listened while we had dinner in the cockpit, and left it on when we went below. I put on long underwear and Bob lighted the new anchor light and put it in the aft cabin. It is nice and bright. After it runs out of oil, it gets colder.

Sunday, 25 March 2001
In the morning, Bob was up by 6:30 to start pulling the anchor. It was 44.4 deg F. The anchor was muddy and needed to be washed off. A nut backed off the windlass and he came back for a hammer and a wrench to fix it. I drove out while he stowed stuff, and put up the staysail, cooked himself some bacon (I had bagels). We also had hot cocoa.

I'm seeing V's of geese flying across the cloudless sky. Terns are sitting on the crab pot buoys. We cross St. Catherine Sound and go through the Florida Straights into Ogeechee River. Bob is following our previous track when I suddenly remember that it is wrong, and goes a slightly longer (but deeper) way. There is a new Catalina 42 with a pale blue bimini behind us and they go the shorter way and pass before we enter Hell Gate. Most of the time the current is against us. Sometimes we are only going 3 or 4 knots.

I hear on the VHF another boater is calling the Coast Guard about a small power boat where someone has a compound fracture. The boat calling is behind us. He says the little power boat is going to Vernon View to a private house to call an ambulance. We are past Vernon View, but I take the binoculars and see a power boat come around the corner to the first dock.
Houses in Vernon View

Houses in Vernon View


We proceed up the river to the Skidaway Bridge. I call on the VHF. The boater who has been talking on the radio about the compound fracture calls the bridge too and asks him to hold our opening until he gets there, and the bridge tender agrees. When the bridge tender deigns to open the bridge, we go through into the Skidaway Narrows. The big power boat named MARY KATHERINE (from Queenstown) comes up behind us. Immediately we meet a tug pushing a barge. We can hardly pass the channel is so narrow without going aground. Then MARY KATHERINE wants to pass too. After he passes, we go by the
village Isle of Hope

village Isle of Hope


and get to the village of Thunderbolt which is a suburb of Savannah.

I see the Liberty Mutual blimp, and azaleas are in bloom along the shore.
Big boats at Palmer Johnson

Big boats at Palmer Johnson


We get to Palmer Johnson marina (they make big (power) yachts) about 3 pm after 47.6 miles at 6 mph - a total of 467 nm since we left Miami. The Catalina 42 that passed us is just pulling away from the fuel dock and after we get fuel, they put us onto the restaurant dock behind them. MARY FRANCIS is also tied up here.
RosalieAnn at the dock

RosalieAnn at the dock

Lighthouse on Palmer Johnson dock

Lighthouse on Palmer Johnson dock


They have an internet connection in the ladies room (in the men's room too). Bob goes to the marine store to see if he can get a wick for the anchor light. Then we have dinner at River's End which is right next to our dock.
River's End Restaurant sign behind power boat

River's End Restaurant sign behind power boat


We have the early bird specials, and both dinners and iced tea are less than $22. I have crab au gratin and Bob has baked flounder. It was very good. We also had good salads, and good hot bread.

Thunderbolt GA - Savannah suburb Monday March 26

Last night, I went up to the bathroom to have a shower and send email. This morning, Bob is up early.
White area on the left that I have edit out of all my photos

White area on the left that I have edit out of all my photos


It has occurred to me that the foggy semi circular area on the left side of some of my pictures may be caused by the telephoto lens being out of alignment. So I take 3 pictures of the sunrise - a little zoom, max zoom and no zoom in that order. When I get the photos back it they still have to have the left side edited out.
x0327-629.jpgEdited Sunrise photos

Edited Sunrise photos


There is a box of donuts on the boat - that is a Palmer Johnson tradition. Bob and I each eat one.

We are tied up behind the Catalina 42 (CAMELOT) which passed us yesterday and they are apparently traveling with an Island Packet which was behind us on the main dock. MARY FRANCES is here too.

The Glanton Bridge which is 2 or 3 miles up the river ha a restricted opening schedule. Between 6:30 and 9, it only opens at 7 and at 8. I decided that we would not try for the 7:00 opening as I think we'd have to leave before 6:30, and I don't want to do that. So we are shooting for the 8:00 opening, and I think we ought to leave about 7:15. The bridge only opens if there is someone waiting who has notified them that they want an opening.

CAMELOT and the Island Packet cast off and are underway about 6:35, and we hear them calling for a 7:00 opening. Then I hear someone plaintively asking when the next opening is, and being told that they will have to wait until 8:00 for it. I call CAMELOT on the radio, and ask if the bridge opened at 7 and if they got through. She reassures me that it did and they did.

We cast off without incident and I steer and drink the hot chocolate that Bob has made and steer through the fixed bridge right by the marina. When we get in sight of the bridge, we start creeping because we are about 20 minutes early.
x0327-739.jpgBonaventure Cemetery

Bonaventure Cemetery


I take pictures of the Bonaventure Cemetery from the river. This is a famous Savannah area cemetery

We see a catamaran pacing back and forth in front of the bridge. That must be who was on the radio earlier. MARY FRANCES now comes around the bend and is also waiting. He goes down close to the catamaran, and then backs up and starts taking in fenders.

The bridge opens, and the catamaran goes through, and MARY FRANCES gets his tail in gear and goes through breathing down the catamaran's neck. We have hung back because of not wanting to be backed into, and I'm afraid we won't make it before the bridge closes. I go down in the aft cabin and hide my head in the pillows. We get through.

MARY FRANCES passes the catamaran and goes out of sight. There is a lot of talking on channel 13 from pilots bringing boats in and out of the Savannah River, which we are about to cross. We have the side curtains down because it is cold. Bob eats his other two donuts and I steer while he goes up and puts up the staysail. We hear that a German warship is coming into the harbor - sounds funny to hear the very southern accent of the pilot making the security calls.

I mention to Bob that I keep thinking that some trees which I can see blurred through the plastic curtain (which has gotten dirty) look like the superstructure of a ship. He opens the curtain and looks. It IS a ship. We are going to be crossing the river right in front of the German warship. I make Bob take the wheel, and tell the pilot on the radio that we will stay out of his way. We do get to the other side before they pass.
German warship

German warship


After we pass Daufuskie Landing, we meet a tug pushing a barge with cars on it. I deduce that it is a car ferry. Then we meet a real ferry. There are no bridges to Daufuskie Island.

We follow the catamaran all day. He never gets too far ahead. We have the staysail up and he pulls out and puts away his jib. We cross Port Royal Sound while I steer and Bob gets lunch. Yesterday he asked for ravioli and all I could find was a kid's meal, so I gave him that and I ate a leftover minute steak in a sandwich. I could NOT get the middle frig compartment open. Today he heated up spaghetti and meatballs (we have 3 cans of that).

We come up by Hilton Head Island, and a guy on the gas dock waves as we go by the Outdoor Resort where we stayed last time. I wave back. The radio at the Beaufort Municipal Marina is monitored by the office, and transferred to the dockmaster. He was blurry on his handheld (loud enough but hard to understand). He first told us we would be 'beside' the black boat, which I at first thought meant rafted on. But he really meant 'ahead of'. Maybe a local way of speech.Transients (especially large boats) are mostly on the face docks. We were tied up ahead of a big black wooden sailboat, and a big power boat was put ahead of us. We are tied up in Beaufort SC by about 3 - after 46.8 miles at 6.1 mph (even with all the idling at the bridge) for a total of 508 nm. We had a maximum speed of 11.3 mph - must have been a really good current. REEL TIME is here too and also MARY FRANCES. The catamaran goes on through the swing bridge. We are right in the middle of town and it is a nice place - sort of like Fernandina. There are azaleas in bloom, but it is cold. The ramp up to the bank is very steep at low tide (we are on floating docks and the tide is about 8 feet).
Beaufort marina

Beaufort marina


Bob walked up into town - the marina personnel told him where he could find a hardware store and he walked there and bought lamp wicks for the new lamp he got in Fernandina (spring 2001). I was allowed to use the fax line in the office for email. All people were very helpful. Rates were $1.20/ft/day or 90 cents/ft for the week, 8:50/ft for the month or $7.00/ft for the year. They noted that weekly and monthly rates may not be offered during the transient season. Electricity and cable TV were included in the daily and weekly rates. Electricity is $70/month extra (called a live-aboard fee) for 30 amp. They say they also have a store, phones, a pumpout boat, ATM, and courtesy car for getting groceries. They allow an hour for the use of the car, but they don't like it if you go to the closest grocery store because that is across the Ladies Island Bridge, and sometimes people get stuck on the other side when it opens and can't get back within the hour.
Ladies Island Bridge from the marina

Ladies Island Bridge from the marina


When we go up to dinner, I decide we should go to Plums. They have an ice cream factory, and I'd like some ice cream for dessert. We walk through the riverside park, where they had a concert earlier this afternoon, and where there are still some vendors under the pavilion.

Bob had a steak, but I try to save money (entrees are $13 to $21 whereas we both ate for $21 last night) and have chicken and dumplings. Bad choice - dumplings are raw in the middle. The waitress keeps filling up our glasses with sweet tea, when I've asked for non sweet. And when it comes time for dessert, they are out of ice cream, and don't offer us anything else.

We sit by the window and watch the antics of two well fed black and white cats, one of which climbs the willow oak in front of the restaurant. When we leave we try to pet the cats, but they are too skittish. Yesterday, the two ladies behind us commented that the lady captain of the big megayacht who was in shirt sleeves "must be a Yankee". Today we are all in heavy coats as it is cold.

I go to a coffee house which has advertised desserts and smoothies, but they have no ice cream either, and so I buy key lime pie, but Bob doesn't want any. I go and sit on the porch swing type swings which are surrounded by wisteria to watch the sunset over the river, but it is too cold, and we go back to the boat. A shrimp boat came in and tied up to the floating docks around sunset, and left at sunrise. Don't know how(or if) they paid

Tuesday 27 March 2001

Today the first bridge with a restricted opening is right beside the marina. We intend to try to get all the way to the southern suburbs of Charleston today at it is 64 miles. We will need to start early and run long, and have some luck with current and wind if we are going to make it.

Bob gets up early and shaves and goes back to bed. Then his alarm goes off. It is 5:15. Finally at 5:45 he says it is time to get up. We are tied up in front of a big black wooden boat, and in front of us is a big power boat. In front of them is a shrimp boat which came in late last night. It came under the swing bridge while we were walking back from dinner. The shrimp boat starts its motor, and pulls away. We start ours too.

Bob is hopping on and off the boat. He gets the lines singled up, and says to put it in reverse, which I do, but he didn't want me to do it yet. Fortunately we are still tied to the dock. We cast off about 6:15. Bob takes off the stern dock line and the current pushes us away from the pier. As I back, Bob takes off the bow line. I call the bridge, but forget that in SC they are on channel 13 and not channel 9. Finally someone comes up on the radio and reminds me.
Beaufort area chart

Beaufort area chart


After we get through the bridge, I steer going around Beaufort for about 35 minutes while Bob takes in lines and fenders, puts up the staysail and gets breakfast. We are doing well for speed (riding the incoming tide) until we hit the Coosaw River, and then our speed drops. We also have a headwind - from the north. MARY FRANCES catches up to us and passes us about 8:15. We turn into the Ashpoo-Coosaw Cutoff. REEL TIME passes us in the cutoff and there is another power boat behind them.

About 28 sm north of the Ladies Island Bridge is a house which was built in 1790 by Ephraim Baynard and is even noted on the charts. Claiborne Young's "Cruising Guide to Coastal South Carolina and Georgia" recounts a number of legends about this house, and I read them to Bob to entertain him. One of them is as follows:

"One fine day..Baynard rode alone to the nearby landing to collect several parcels he had ordered from Charleston for his wife and daughter. On the way home, he stopped by a friend's house for a few drinks, and it was quite dark before he again set out on the road home. Baynard was passing the Presbyterian churchyard when a sudden gust of wind caused him to look at the path behind him. Much to his astonishment, he saw a large white mass billowing directly behind his horse. In his fright, the planter set his spurs to the fiery horse and fled down the road like the wind. When he dared to look back, his hair stood on end. Not only had he failed to leave the phantom behind, but it seem to be closer than ever. Baynard urged his prize horse on to even greater speed. As he entered his driveway, his horse collapsed, giving the master a nasty fall...It was only then that the .. planter realized that a long bolt of white linen had worked loose from one of the packages and had been trailing behind him. Ephriam Baynard must have been an embarrassed man..."

Around noon the strong gusty headwinds rip the staysail right through at the top. Bob went up on deck and stowed it while I steered. The wind is too close to zero degrees to pull out the jib, so we will just have to motor.

A little trawler with a Jack Russell hanging out the window passes us near where we spend the night in Fishing Creek. They pull over to the side to a floating dock under the fixed bridge (there is a ramp there) and let him off to do his business, and then are on their way again.

We slog onward. I am getting concerned about 4:00 as we don't seem to be making any progress. It is getting to be low tide, and the wind is against us. We have to go through the Limehouse Bridge which opens every 20 minutes except during rush hour, and then only every half hour.

The marina we are going to (Buzzard's Roost) is around the corner from this bridge, and the dock workers go home at 4:30 and the last person leaves at 6. (This marina doesn't have a lot of transient traffic.) I call on the cell phone and she reassures me that she will get someone to help us.

Suddenly we are at the Limehouse bridge and it looks as if we will make th 4:30 opening - I had been hoping we would make 5:00. We go through. As we come to the bend in the river, the marina lady calls me on the radio and says she sees us, and will meet us down at the dock. Bob judges that the current will be toward the marina, and the wind will push us into the face dock. He does a good job and we hit the dock broadside exactly where we are to tie up (without hitting the boat behind us).
RosalieAnn at the marina from the bridge - the boat with the red stripe

RosalieAnn at the marina from the bridge - the boat with the red stripe


We are tied up with to total of 563 nm after 63.9 miles at 5.6 mph. And we are exhausted. I go up and sign in before the lady leaves. Then we tie things down and go up to the local restaurant for dinner. I get flounder and just can't eat it.

Wednesday 28 March 2001

The next morning we sleep late. Bob changes the oil and gets the food from the frig. I strip the bed and get the dirty clothes into bags. Rob had classes yesterday until noon, and then went to work at 8 pm. He came to get us. So now we are here.
Grandchildren's dogs

Grandchildren's dogs

Grandson and his dog

Grandson and his dog

Grandchildren

Grandchildren

Rob in his uniform

Rob in his uniform

Rob's kitchen

Rob's kitchen

Pottery that my son and daughter-in-law make

Pottery that my son and daughter-in-law make

Getting back from church at Easter

Getting back from church at Easter



Sunday 1 April 2001

We left Rob's house and went back to the boat Sunday morning. I walked out of the house without my fanny pack (wallet, credit cards, phone, and combinations to the bathrooms) and also my ICW Guide and maps. We also needed fuel. So I called Rob and told him that if he wanted to come over Monday afternoon after school, we could take him, our daughter-in-law and the kids from our dock over to the fuel dock and back, and then go out to dinner. I had to get the combinations again, and they were labeled M, W, L. I thought that was men, wash, ladies. It was actually men, women, laundry. So we did that.
Bob and son's family on the dock

Bob and son's family on the dock

Grandchildren in the aft cabin

Grandchildren in the aft cabin

Rob at the Buzzard's Roost gas dock

Rob at the Buzzard's Roost gas dock


But he forgot my stuff too, so he and Bob went back to get it. THen we had dinner at the restaurant there (Cappy's).
Grandson and daughter-in-law having dinner

Grandson and daughter-in-law having dinner


Bob was going to ride his bike to the store, but the lady at the marina (Donna), said that the road wasn't safe for bikes. The swing bridge tender (the one next to the marina) was killed just walking back along the bridge to his car.
Bridge next to the marina

Bridge next to the marina


So now when the shift on the bridge changes, they stop traffic for it although they don't open the bridge. Donna gave Bob a ride to the store when she went home for lunch.

Monday 2 April 2001
.
I figured that there would be the least current against us in Elliott Cut (which can be up to 6 knots) at slack low water which would be at 11 am. I decided that it would be better to start before slack low water to have the current with us in the harbor (which can also be pretty strong). The next bridge (Wappo Creek) only opens on the hour and half hour 9 to 4:30, and not at all during rush hour.

So Bob assumed we'd shoot for the 9:30 opening, and thought that the bridge was only about a mile away. However it was almost 3 miles, and I wasn't ready when he wanted to cast off, so he shut the motor off again. Started up again at 9:15, and made the 10:00 opening easy. The current was as I predicted.
Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

Ft_Sumter_from_ICW

Ft_Sumter_from_ICW

Sullivan's Island lighthouse

Sullivan's Island lighthouse


Then we motored down and across the harbor, and into the ICW on the other side. The Ben Sawyer bridge is over there, and it has fenders (wooden fences to keep boats from crashing into the bridge) only on one side. I assume this is because the water is too shallow on the other side. I heard the bridge tender pleading with someone not to go through the wrong side.
03-1017x.jpgBen Sawyer bridge

Ben Sawyer bridge


Saw black and white skimmers flying in pairs along the edge of the water with the bottom half of their beaks in the water. Saw human clam diggers mucking around in the mud.

We got to Isle of Palms on the other side of the harbor about noon after 16.6 miles @ 6.4 mph for a total of 578 nm. The boat dock guy was wearing flipflops and had a hard time getting us tied up. We were behind a big power boat and ahead of him was a huge Norseman catamaran. Later a big trawler named JANET ANN came in and tied up behind us.

On the other side of the dock were 2 sailboats, one with two dogs, and one with one dog. The dog spent its time lying on the deck, and when it wanted to go potty, it got off the boat using the stairs and trotted up the ramp, went, and then got back on the boat. Found that lady spent the winter here as she had family business to take care of.

We had cable TV, but the broadcast channels were so strong that they completely overlaid the cable channels, so we couldn't get the Weather Channel. The phone hookup didn't work at all, so I went up and used the connection in the office. We didn't even find the real bathrooms and showers until much later.

We got lunch (pork chops and chicken livers) at the deli, and ate dinner at the restaurant overlooking our slip. We both had barbecue chicken which was about $14 @. This restaurant is very handy to the marina and has a good view of the ICW, but is at the end of a dead end road and off the beaten track. It was empty each time we were there. We had a long conversation on the second night with the only employee there - the waiter who was also cooking because the cook's wife was in the hospital having a baby. Claiborne Young's assessment of this restaurant when it was in business was that the food was ordinary.He was probably right, but it was good ordinary food.
Isle of Palms restaurant from the ICW

Isle of Palms restaurant from the ICW


The reason we stopped so soon was - Bob didn't want to spend another night in McClellanville tied to a fixed dock with an 8 foot tide. And McClellanville is the only place to stop between Isle of Palms and Georgetown.

Posted by greatgrandmaR 13:57 Archived in USA Comments (0)

Miami Interval and then starting North


View 2000-01 Novices Overcoming ICW Obstacles on greatgrandmaR's travel map.

February 28 to March 3, 2001
Stayed at our daughter's a couple of days and then went back to the boat.

Saturday, 4 March 2001

She wasn't flying on Sat March 4th, so we made arrangements to pick them up at Crandon Park marina fuel dock (taking everyone out to the boat in the dinghy would have been a nightmare). Our SIL was still coming down from Orlando with his father and brother, so it was our daughter, our grandson (anxious to try out a snorkeling wet suit), our granddaughter, Don (their friend from Okinawa, who is interested in sailing), Carol and her son Charlie (also with a snorkeling suit).
Granddaughter in aft cabin

Granddaughter in aft cabin


Don arrived first with a big bag which at first I thought was scuba gear even though I should have known what it was - our children's families gave Bob a folding bike for his birthday, which had it's own storage bag. Bob thought it was scuba gear also at first. What a nice surprise!!! We had been thinking a little bit about bikes, but hadn't considered anything so fancy.
Granddaughter in life vest

Granddaughter in life vest


We did get to sail for a little bit - Don was real good with the boys letting them help steer,
Grandson at the wheel with Don directing

Grandson at the wheel with Don directing


and then we anchored, and the boys and I went swimming. There was too much wind kicking up too much sediment to see much when snorkeling, but I think they had a good time. Suddenly Don noticed a lobster pot going by - we were dragging the anchor. So we picked up and reset.
Daughter

Daughter


Our son-in-law and Dave (Carol's husband) came out in Dave's boat, and rafted up to us. We insist that all on board our boat wear PFDs (life jackets) which Dave and our SIL think is a silly rule, so they are ostentatiously coming in wearing them.
Charlie's boat

Charlie's boat


All the guests got onto Dave's boat and went back to the Crandon Park beach where our little granddaughter could go in the water too, (and to pick up the cars they had left there, plus the truck at Rickenbacker), and Bob and I had a nice sail back to the mooring. We went to dinner at the Rusty Anchor (although we missed the early bird special), and I downloaded all my email at the pay phone.

5 - 8 March 2001

Bob wanted to leave Monday. So we disassembled the portaboat Sunday and stowed it. However, the weather kicked up and I persuaded him to wait.

Thursday 9 March, 2001
Finally he went in Thursday morning and got our refund for the remainder of March, turned in the keys, and then took a nap. We left the mooring about 4-4:30 in the afternoon - we wanted to get out of the harbor while we could see. We were headed for Lake Worth.

We motored out of Government Cut about 5 - dodging ferries and one big freighter, but fortunately no cruise ships. It was much more peaceful the last time we came in to Government Cut at 3 am.
Moorise

Moorise


We put up the sails, and motorsailed in light east winds. Had dinner in the cockpit.

Sunset

Sunset


08-1829.jpg0e445b00-e6e9-11e9-ad08-87f9b43a5f2f.jpg
I went down for a nap about 7, and slept or dozed until 10:30. Came up into the cockpit and we talked. We had 72 nm to cover, and we didn't want to arrive before about 8 am. Therefore we couldn't go fast - would have to be less than 5 knots- or we'd be there too early. We didn't see many boats - no cruise ships - just some fishing boats and a few tugs with barges.

The winds got stronger so we shut off the engine, and Bob went down to sleep about midnight. He couldn't sleep in the aft cabin because of the noise, so he went forward to the bunk in the main saloon. I sailed, aided by the Gulf Stream. I put the autopilot on the wind (which shifted from east, to southeast to south to southwest) going anywhere from 2.8 to 6.5 knots - depending on the wind and how much of an assist we were getting from the Gulf Stream until about 3:30 when I looked to see if he was asleep.

Friday 10 March 2001

The wind was shifting, and the Gulf Stream was carrying us east, so we turned on the motor, and I went back to take a nap about 5. It was cold-even with a coat, sweater and quilt in the aft cabin I was cold. I didn't have any problem with the noise tho - I used ear plugs. About dawn I came up - we were off the Lake Worth inlet. Bob had taken in the jib, but left up the other sails because there were big swells - big as in broad. You hardly noticed them (with the sails up as a stabilizer) but the boat would go up to the top and then down into a valley. No seas breaking over the bow - just big swells carrying the boat up and then down.
Palm Beach Princess

Palm Beach Princess


We saw a boat which proved to be called PALM BEACH PRINCESS (home port Panama) and looked to be a small cruise ship. Bob did a circle as it appeared also to be headed for the inlet. Then he went to take down the staysail, and put out docklines while I was at the wheel.
Palm Beach Princess

Palm Beach Princess


All of a sudden, the PRINCESS, which was going into the inlet ahead of me, stopped and started to back up. I moved out from behind them and called them on the radio. I said "Palm Beach Princess, Where are you GOING?". Eventually, they came up on the radio, and said they were waiting for a pilot, and they did see me, and I should go on in the inlet.

There was a current about 3 knots in our favor. I started calling the marina on the radio, but got no response. We passed the Riviera Beach Municipal Marina and went up the river. I finally called them on the phone.

Riviera Beach charged us $40.85/night (44 foot boat) plus a refundable $20 deposit for the key. They say if you are here for 4 nights, it is cheaper to pay for the week. They have cable TV hookups at some docks, but our hookup is being used by the power boat across the way. We have electricity -don't know how much it is. We came in at slack tide, and will try to leave ditto as there is a LOT of cross current in this marina. We ate lunch, I took a nap, and we had dinner.

They have a large dry storage business here, and a little sandwich shop/bar type place. There are showers and a laundry ($1/load-Bob has done a wash), and a connection to get e-mail outside the office (available 24 hours - I've downloaded e-mail). They have fuel and ice but we haven't gotten any of either. They have bikes for rent for $6/day.

There are security gates, but have not seen them locked. Bob says the area around the marina looks like we would get mugged if we went out at night,--nothing around there in the way of nice places to eat and the bar/restaurant plays loud music late. I talked to the marina guy - he says they are going to move this whole marina inland, and put a hotel and aquarium here. He says they will dig canals etc - multi-million$ project.

Saturday 11 March 2001

Bob has been walking around to the various hardware stores and the marine consignment shop (I think it is called the Sea Chest) which is only a couple blocks away, and he says it is better organized than Sailorman in Ft. Lauderdale. We expect to leave here Sunday and go to Ft. Pierce.

Posted by greatgrandmaR 16:45 Archived in USA Comments (0)

Sailing to Lucaya and exploring Grand Bahama

And Going back to Miami


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After lunch we turned NE toward Grand Bahama. As we sailed across the NW Channel, the current turned against us, flowing west, and our speed dropped to under 6 knots.

I was reading the guide and picking out landmarks on the shore. The first thing we saw was 3 towers near Freeport. Then we saw the oil terminal structures off Freeport and the oil tanks offshore. The Greek Temple looking thing was the .
Xanadu Hotel

Xanadu Hotel


I found out that it did not really have columns. It looked that way because of the arrangement of windows. The thing that looked like a French chateau (with turrets)
large_07652685.jpg
was a house behind Ocean Reef Yacht Club.

Since the Bimini chart was so far off, I wasn't comfortable with just going to the Bell channel off Lucaya. I was trying to pick out the actual marker. This was made more difficult by the fact that there were cruise ship moorings (usually a couple of big oil drums with a light on them) scattered around which were much the same color and size as the marker. Also it was getting toward sunset. We could see the (fake) red and white lighthouse that we knew was on the west side of the entrance, but still couldn't see where that was.
Fake Lucaya lighthouse from the marina

Fake Lucaya lighthouse from the marina


We called the marina to tell them that we were coming, and they said that it was OK they were open until 11 pm. We took the sails down.

Finally we saw the red and green markers and were close enough that we could see that the jetty had two ends coming out towards us rather than being a single rip rap of rocks along the shore. There were red and green lights on the ends. As we turned in the channel (we did not see the line of breakers that was on the chart), a power boat was coming out. He stopped at the end of the jetties and turned around and went back in. Don't know why.

As we reached the outer end of the jetties, and were starting through them, a huge catamaran party boat (loud music and lots of people) called Bahama Mama appeared at the other end.
Bahama Mama

Bahama Mama


Fortunately, they paused to wait for us to get through. Not sure there would have been room for both of us.

I called the marina (Lucaya Village) and they said to go to slip B318, so we motored slowly around the side of the marina, and, with the help of the dock hand and the people on adjacent boats, we docked at the fixed concrete docks. Fortunately no wind or current. The marina on the other side (Port Lucaya) was mostly for big power boats.

The slip was really a little too small for us, and the last piling was about 10 feet short of the end of the boat. The finger pier only went to about even with the midships shrouds. So to get off, we had to go through the gate and sidle along outside the lifelines a couple of feet and then step over. Or if it was low tide, crawl up onto the pier.

Prices here were $1.00/foot, and water was $5/day (mandatory - you had to take the water). Electricity was 25 cents a KW, and cable TV was free. The guide book said there was a restaurant, but there wasn't - all the restaurants were at Port Lucaya.

I went up and registered. We had gone 67 nm at 5.8 knots - a total of 11.5 hours. After Bob got the boat secured, we took the free water taxi (which runs every half hour) over to Port Lucaya and had dinner. We ate on the water at The Pub at Lucaya. I had chicken pot pie, and we had ice cream for dessert. The ice creams were $4 @. We discovered another reason to stay in the Village instead of here - there's live music every night in the Count Basie pavilion right on the water until 11 pm.We sat and listened to the music (loud) and watched the little kids and one local guy who had great moves dancing. This is where the Bahama Mama and the other tour boats and dive boats leave from.
Water taxi

Water taxi


After dinner we walked back to the shuttle dock, and went back to the Village. I stopped to get pocket mail at the pay phone and use the bathrooms.

Friday, February 23, 2001

Bob decided to go into town - he wanted to see if he could get an offset screw driver, some little ignition wrenches (to repair the Johnson outboard) that he hadn't been able to get in Bimini, and some R12 for the refrigeration. He also wanted to go to the supermarket. I thought Friday would be better than Sat, and definitely better than Sunday when things are closed.

The people in the nearby slips a DuFour 31 named MIRAGE on one side ([/i]with a young couple from the Pacific NW - their friends sailed down the west coast and thru the canal, and up to FL and the Bahamas, and then they traded - their friends flew back to the NW to work and live in these folks house, and these guys took over the boat): a 30 something foot boat with a young guy named Tim. (He was single handing since his girl friend had to go back to work): and a boat named for the genus of the Blue Crab (who signs on to Southbound II (where Herb runs a weather service for cruisers on the SSB) as JOY because Herb can't pronounce their boat name, and I can't spell it either[i]) said that there was a WinnDixie about a mile away, but the better one was in Freeport, and there was an ACE hardware store there too. They said the bus (which was mini vans - private owners) would only be $1.

The people near us were going with some other people in their dinghies to snorkel. That would have been nice - they apparently had a good time. Although if we had gone too, I'm not sure that we could get back into our dinghy.
Bow of JADE EAST

Bow of JADE EAST

Jade East

Jade East


Bob was getting ready to leave, and asked me if I was coming. I asked him if he needed me to navigate, as I wasn't really interested in shopping. He said it would be nice to have me along. I assumed he was going to rent a car and would want me to read the map, so I said OK. But he was taking the bus, and I suspected that a lot of walking would be involved and I should leave him to his own shopping devices. I was right.

We walked out to the road by a little deli-restaurant place, and got the van which took us in as far as the Winn Dixie. One of the marina folks said to go all the way to the PO which was the end of the line, and we should have done that because later we didn't know where the PO was. We went to the ACE hardware store and discovered that it was closed, as in out of business. We went to the bus area - which had a dispatcher like a taxi rank, and the people there said to take another bus to Kelly's. So we did that. Bob found a few things, but not the wrenches. So we asked there, for an auto parts store, and they told us to go to A.I.D. and gave him directions to walk. He had the map, and he didn't look on it to see where it was. It didn't sound like it was too far, but...

Bob started off walking and we walked and walked and walked (it was near noon now, and hot). We walked through a very industrial area, with printing plants, etc. Finally reached the store. He did find some R12, and most of the other things, but not the wrenches.

Now we had to get back to the Winn Dixie. I said I was not walking. He could carry me, or call a cab or rent a car, but I wasn't walking. So they called a cab for us, and we taxied back for $3.20. (The starting rate is something like $2.00 for 1/4 mile and $1.00 for each additional 1/4 mile)

We wanted to have lunch and couldn't see any place to eat except Burger King, KFC, Subway etc. So we started out on foot to look for a place to eat. After trying two local places and finding that they were closed (as in not opening), we finally ended up at KFC (after a lot more walking). After lunch, Bob went back to the Winn Dixie, and I followed at my leisure (after getting the map from him) and sat outside and waited for him. Now we had to find the PO to get the bus back. More walking.

The bus took us a different route back - went by the other marinas and hotels long the shore. When we walked back to the boat, we found out they were having a fish fry by the pool. We decided to go. This was a disappointment. I thought we'd be able to talk to other people, but there weren't enough tables, and they were all full, so we had to sit in lounge chairs by the pool, and that isn't very comfortable. Also, they had a fish fry dinner, fried chicken dinner and lobster salad. We assumed that lobster salad was also a dinner, but it was not - it was just a salad ($10 @ ). So we ate and then went back to the boat.
Sunset

Sunset


Saturday February 24, 2001

Saturday, Bob went up and did laundry in the laundry room, and he also wanted to go into town again. I went up to use the bathroom and download pocketmail, and it took me so long that he decided it was too late to go into town. So he spent time washing the boat down and polishing stuff, and cetoling the brightwork (puting marine varnish on the wood trim). I found that there was an internet cafe over in Port Lucaya, so I took the computer over there. I spent most of the afternoon there but they absolutely couldn't get my computer logged on at all. I finally used their computer for about 15 minutes (at 20 cents/minute which is cheaper than a phone call), and looked at email etc. Then I took the shuttle back.

We took the shuttle over again and had dinner at Giovannis, which was a really good Italian restaurant - really tiny though, so either make reservations or go early. There were 6 couples there and the table stretched almost the full width of the restaurant. They wanted pictures taken of the whole group, so I did that (4 cameras). We both had the seafood spaghetti - shrimp, fish and lobster. It was very good. Then we had peach melba for dessert. Our meal (drinking iced tea) cost us $35.54.

Sunday, February 25, 2001

Bob went up to take a swim in the pool (which was heated) and take a shower, and I did too, but I left after him, and he'd already done swimming when I got there.

Herb said the winds would be light from the SW the next day. We originally thought we'd go to Great Stirrup Cay in the Berry Islands, but SW winds would be no good for that, and it was 55 miles which was a long way against the wind and current. Herb thought that Tuesday would be better as the wind would be NE. Then Bob could have gone into town Monday. Our projected itinerary was to go to Great Stirrup Tuesday and anchor (but I didn't know if we could anchor there and it was a long trip). Then to go to Great Harbor Weds (short trip) and take a mooring someone from the CSY group offered us. Then to go to Chubb Cay Thursday (short trip), and Friday and Saturday go across the Grand Bahamas Banks to Cat Cay or Gun Cay (but that involved anchoring on the Banks), and from there to go back to Miami as soon as the weather was appropriate.

But I was getting itchy, and it sounded like the winds were going to come from the north again soon, and I decided we ought to take the change and go to Miami now. JOY was going back to Lake Worth. It was 90 miles to Miami, so it would be more than 12 hours.

So we took the shuttle in to Port Lucaya and had dinner at a Greek restaurant, and then came home and went to bed early to prepare.

Leaving Lucaya - Monday 26 Feb 2001

JOY left real early. JADE EAST (a CSY 37), and the other boat they were traveling with also left about 7. I walked up to the office to finalize our bill. We'd used 4 KW of electricity - cost $1.00. We also had the two lobster salads on the bill, and I'd bought an Explorer chart book at the suggestion of Tim as it had more depths and detail than the MapTech one we had.

The office opened at 7:00, and I was right there as she unlocked the door. We cast off at 7:20, and motored out of the marina,
Lucaya entrance from the marina

Lucaya entrance from the marina


out of the breakwater (again no breakers as the winds were light), and actually saw the Bell Channel marker this time.
Bell Channel Marker

Bell Channel Marker


Then we had breakfast. Assisted by the current, we were doing 8 or more knots, but we were motor sailing. I took a nap. Then we had lunch. Then Bob actually took a nap of about 2 hours. When we talked to Herb at Southbound II and signed off , he had trouble grasping that we were actually under way.

Now we were in the Gulf Stream and it was pushing us north. I tried to keep the speed up above 5 knots, and just let it move us sideways without trying to fight it. We would be steering 242, and the GPS would say our track was 255. The winds were light, and really SW or WSW. We had dinner while motor sailing. Bob took in the jib, so the sails were mostly steadying.

I went down and took another nap, although Bob refused to do the same. About 11:30, we had gotten near to Ft. Lauderdale, and I phoned Customs to see what we should do, and whether we could sign in by phone from a mooring. I got a grumpy guy and he said I couldn't phone from offshore (which was obviously not true although I think he meant that I couldn't check in from offshore and not that I couldn't phone from offshore), and that I would have to come in to a dock. Since I doubted that there would be anyone around to authorize that at the hour we would be coming in, I didn't know how that would work.

We motored down along the coast just outside the Gulf Stream, dodging fishing boats that were darting out at random, and gambling ships which were barging around like fat drunk fireflies.

Tuesday 27 February 2001 Coming back from the Lucaya

We found the harbor entrance into Miami about 2 am, and Bob steered in through the breakwater and then handed the helm over to me while he took down the sails and prepared to pick up the mooring. I steered along the south side of the harbor, and almost hit an unlighted green can - went on the wrong side of it. Fortunately it was high tide. Then I turned down toward the Rickenbacker Causeway, and Bob said there were no more markers until the bridge. (He denies saying that.) But there were. I was coming up to them one by one, but they weren't all lighted. Suddenly ahead of me I saw a reflection from our bow nav lights in a green marker on a big pole.

Opps. I swerved and missed it, but not by much. Waked Bob up for sure.

We turned in by the bridge and saw that there was a boat on a mooring ahead of us, but we picked up the mooring without any incident - worked well. And we were able to turn stuff off by about 3:30 am. I called Customs and signed in (on the cell phone) and she said we'd have to get a sticker. So we shut stuff off and went to bed.

In the morning, we called our daughter to tell her where we were, and get directions from her as to where customs was, and then got stuff together, put the portabote together and in the water, locked everything up and came in to shore. There were no carts that weren't locked up. I don't know what the carts are for if they are not for people to use. After we carried the motor and food and laundry etc to the truck, then we tried to find the customs office. It was almost 11 am

It was somewhere on Dodge Island. But I knew they were closed from about 11:30 to 1. Finally found signs that said Customs, and then went to get something to eat. Ate at a restaurant called Snappers. I had a cup of soup and a Ceasar salad. Bob had a hamburger. I wanted to go to the bathroom, and it was a stealth bathroom - completely unmarked door. While Bob went to the bathroom a nail care vendor got a hold of me and polished one nail, but I didn't buy her kit.

We went back to where we thought customs was, but it was some type of catering operation. So back into the truck, and try the other side of the road. No luck. Every time we left somewhere, we had to go out and come back onto the island. So I called again (it was just 1 pm and someone answered) and got more directions - turned out we had to go through the toll plaza like place. Had to go off the island and come back on again - this time we made it and got our sticker. I tried to call the 800# on the way to our daughter's house, but I was told I wasn't authorized to make that call from my phone. I had to wait to complete check-in until I got to her house and could use a Florida phone. Today I also mailed the forms back to the Bahamas to complete the checkout from there.

Next Miami and North

Posted by greatgrandmaR 16:39 Archived in Bahamas Comments (2)

The Search for Bimini

And Finding it


View 2000-01 Novices Overcoming ICW Obstacles & Test on greatgrandmaR's travel map.

Gulf stream goes between Florida and the Bahamas

Gulf stream goes between Florida and the Bahamas

First Gulf Stream Crossing to Bimini

We've been in Florida since the end of November. We need to leave the state before 90 days is up, or we have to re-register t he boat in Florida. Even though we've been down to the Dry Tortugas, that is still considered Florida. The closest non-Florida place we can go to is the Bahamas. Our son-in-law goes over in his power boat all the time - takes him a couple of hours. But our sailboat, although it is bigger has a smaller motor and goes much more slowly

We needed for the wind to NOT be from the north in order to make a halfway comfortable crossing. The reason is that the Gulf Stream is right off the Florida coast (as close as 1 mile off Ft. Lauderdale). It is implacably going north whatever the weather is doing. It moves at a speed of 3 knots more or less in the middle of the Stream and somewhat less on the edges. The waves in the Stream go north also. If wind comes from the north (or north east or north west), it ruffles up the northbound Gulf Stream waves, like stroking a cat's fur the wrong way. It makes the Stream 'angry', and the waves turn from long low rollers into taller (in height) bouncy choppy (close together) nasty waves which get higher and higher the longer the wind is coming from the north. These waves are referred to as 'elephants', and you can see them from shore if they get big enough. Even quite big ships like freighters can be rolled and sunk by the elephants if they are not careful.

Our object was to cross when the wind had been from the south (or south east or south west) for several days to allow all the elephants to lie down. Wednesday the wind was from the south, and was predicted to be southwest on Thursday/Thurs. night, so that's when we would cross - SW would be good as we were going east and we could sail.

14 February 2001
Wednesday was Valentine's Day. We decided to eat at the restaurant at the marina called the Rusty Anchor. We had forgotten that it was Valentines and the place was packed to the gills and they had to have valet parking because the parking lot was full. They lock the gates to the parking lot after the restaurant closes at night. So if you park here for the marina at night you won't be able to get your car in the morning.

For some reason (maybe they don't want boat people in the restaurant), there is no way you can come here by boat as the docks do not have enough water to float a boat and there are rocks right off the restaurant. For Valentine's Day they had a special which included everything - everything meant you got wine or champagne with the meal. We ate outside which was a little chilly. You wanted to warm yourself on the candle at the table. It was also so dark we had to borrow a flashlight from the waiter to read the menu. But we had a nice romantic dinner.

15 February 2001
The distance from Miami to Bimini is 42 miles. However -- our boat only does about 5 knots under power, and the Stream will be going 2-3 knots perpendicular to us. So we expected the trip to take longer, but since we can sail faster than we motor, I didn't think it would take more than about 12 hours. We'd heard lots of stories about people going aground in Bimini, so we wanted to arrive there in daylight (never good to sail in the Bahamas after dark). We decided to leave Miami at dark and sail through the night and arrive in the morning.

So, therefore, we left the mooring Thursday morning (after I attempted to sleep late, and Bob attempted to make it impossible to sleep late), and went over to Crandon Park Marina on the other side of the key to get fuel and water. Rickenbacker where we were normally doesn't have diesel fuel. Fuel and water are expensive in the Bahamas. Then we went down near the end of the Key near a place called No Name Harbor, and anchored, and took naps, and had dinner. I didn't want to go around Cape Florida in the dark, because it is not as well marked as the channel out through Stiltsville, so we pulled the anchor at about 5:45, and started out. By the time we got out off the coast by Fowley Rocks, it was dark. Bob put up the staysail and the main. But the wind was an east wind.
The Gulf Stream

The Gulf Stream


We motor sailed as hard as we could, but it was slow work. If we tacked to the north, we'd be up to 8 knots really quickly. But when we tacked the other direction, we'd only be going 2 or 3 knots. And we couldn't go north very long or we'd be in Bermuda or Grand Bahama or somewhere. I went to take a nap, while Bob was trying to deal with the big cruise ships which go out beyond the 3 mile limit and then wander around at random. Bob thinks they may be gambling cruises. At least they are all lit up and you can see them.

About 11 pm, I sent him down for a nap. But the waves were rolley, and he said every time he'd get comfortable, I'd tack and roll him over. He tried the main saloon too, and it didn't work. He couldn't relax. So he came back up. It was cold, so we both got our coats. Spray was coming up over the bow as the boat plowed into the waves, and we could see in the reflection that our green running light was out. We sailed through the night - I would doze off and my auto inflate PFD acted like one of those blow up collars that you use when you sleep on an airplane. Bob was dozing off too.

16 February, 2001 - Arriving in Bimini

We sat in the cockpit until dawn, and we were still only 3/4ths of the way there.

Finally about 10 am, we saw the island in the distance. There is a range down on South Bimini, and one has to come in along the range almost to the beach and then follow the beach north past a long shoal that comes out from the south end of North Bimini. We couldn't find the range. I called Sea Crest Marina to get a slip to go to Customs and asked them, and they said it was at the end of the beach, and to come in on a course of 085 deg. Finally found the range (which is two sticks one behind the other
Range sticks a long way apart

Range sticks a long way apart

Range sticks coming closer together

Range sticks coming closer together

and you are on the range if you have them lined up so they look like one)
On the Range

On the Range


We motored slowly in and along the shore through the beautiful turquoise waters. I stood on the bow with polarized sunglasses so I could see if there were shallow spots. When we were partway in a little power boat came out and led us around the shoal that has developed where they have dredged a new marina on South Bimini. We didn't go aground anywhere and tied up at Sea Crest in the first slip on the northeast side of the dock at 11:30 Friday morning Feb 16th after 69.5 nm at an average speed of 3.8 knots. We went an extra 27 nm while tacking across the Gulf Stream.

Bob had put up the yellow quarantine flag before we came in. The dock master brought us the forms when we were tied up. We each had an immigration form, and there was "Bahamas Immigration Inward Passenger and Crew Manifest", Customs Inward Report, a Maritime Declaration of Health with questions such as
1. "Had there been on board during the voyage and case or suspected case of plague cholera, yellow fever or smallpox?"
2. "Has plague occurred or been suspected among rats or mice on board during the voyage or has there been any usual morality among them?"

On the back was a chart to list "Particulars of every case of illness or death occurring on board"

The last column was headed "Disposal of case".
Entrance to the Bahamas

Entrance to the Bahamas


I filled everything out, and took our passports and the boat documentation and registration up to the customs office while Bob stayed on the boat and got it reorganized. (Only the captain is allowed off - all crew has to stay on board until the formalities are finished.) A nice young black woman in a neat uniform helped me with the paperwork, which included asking me what dinghies and motors we had on board. Then I paid $100 for the overall permit which included all fees and a fishing permit. I used two $50 traveler's checks, and had to pay 25 cents each to use them. Bahama money and US money is interchangeable but we had difficulty using anything but cash. They often didn't take credit cards and wouldn't cash traveler's checks except at the bank, where the rate of exchange was less.

Then I was to go to immigration, but the lady told me that they were not there now, and what I should do was go back to the marina and get the dock master to call for me to see when they got back before I went. She said Bob could get off the boat and have lunch. However, by the time I got back to Bob with that information and he got the boat locked up, the dock master said he'd seen the guy going back to his office.

So Bob went over to the cafe across the way (Skipper Bob's) and Cap'n Pat (the local golf cart king) took me in a golf cart up to the governmental offices.
Police station, immigration, Post office and tourist bureau

Police station, immigration, Post office and tourist bureau


and I got our passports stamped and then rode back. Then I ate the sandwich Bob had ordered for me. It was supposed to be a BLT, but I thought it was a bacon sandwich. It had a LOT of bacon on it. Then we took the quarantine flag down and put up the Bahamas flag. We rented a golf cart for an hour ($20) and I drove it to the north end of town
School next to the Government  building

School next to the Government building

Police car

Police car


and then down to the south end. (They drive on the left in the Bahamas.) Then we went back to the boat and took a nap. We had dinner at the Anchorage which was a nice place up on the hill. I had lobster and Bob had the catch of the day. Service was quick and efficient. They gave us a pitcher of iced tea so we could serve ourselves. And the food was good and the bread was hot. They only had lemon cake for dessert, but it was good. Then we crashed.

17 February 2001 Saturday

Electricity was a horrendous amount (like $40/day) where the general slip rental was 90 cents/foot. Water was 20 cents a gallon, and there were meters on the piers. So we formed a habit of running the engine to run the refrigeration in the morning and in the afternoon and we didn't hook up to water either..
RosalieAnn at the dock

RosalieAnn at the dock


Everyone uses the VHF like a phone, so we had it on all the time. We listened to people calling for the water taxi (to South Bimini), and asking the restaurants what the specials were. We also could watch the sea planes land and take off in the channel next to us.
Sea plane landing

Sea plane landing


I could use my Verizon bag phone, but I still haven't gotten the bill - I'm sure it will be horrible. My ATT phone didn't work at all. To get pocketmail, I could use the bag phone, call the USA direct 800 line, and call the pocketmail # (not an 800 # in the Bahamas) and then give a phone card # to charge it to. I could use the pay phone outside the marina, but the touch tone part didn't work so after I dialed the US, I had to say my credit card number to it, which I didn't like, but I wouldn't have to pay roaming charges on the air time on the bag phone. Eventually I discovered that the phone at the next marina would let me use the touch tones instead of saying the number. I tried the phone card from Sam's Club that my mother gave me, but 500 minutes became less than 30 minutes, and I had to dial the US, and then dial the phone card number, and then dial the phone card ID and then dial the phone number I wanted.
Antennas on the shore

Antennas on the shore


I called the dive shop (Bill & Nowdla Keefe's Bimini Undersea) and was told that they were leaving at 10. I didn't think I could get my gear together by then, so I decided to go on the afternoon dive. We walked up to the outdoor market (mostly t-shirts) and bought Bimini bread and coconut candy.
Sea wall

Sea wall


After lunch, I took my cart and put the bag with my dive stuff on it onto the pier and went down to the dive shop. I went out and had a nice dive at Turtle Rocks. There were two of us diving and two snorkeling. There was a bit of current and it was a shallow dive and I had some trouble getting the weights right. One of the two snorkelers (it was a young couple) got frightened by the surge near the rocks. I rented a camera, but it wouldn't rewind the film, and the dive master opened it up in the sun and ruined all the film, so they refunded my rental money. They delivered us back to the pier and I rinsed off my gear in a wheelbarrow and took a shower. Meantime, Bob went to the hardware/marine store and tried to get an offset screw driver and some little ignition wrenches without success. Then we walked down to the Red Lion for dinner. It was OK but the service was somewhat disconnected. The lady that took our order didn't bring it, and we asked someone else, and then both of them brought it so we had two. I had calamari and Bob had snapper..

Sunday, February 18, 2001- Day of Rest and a Storm

Bob walked all the way up to see where the other hardware store was, and listened to the church singing along the way. He said the Baptists sang the loudest.
King Street

King Street


Some Bahamians came in a boat and tried to sell us lobster. We weren't sure if it was a good price or not, so we didn't buy. Also saw a blue shark cruising in the marina where one of the guys in a power boat on the other dock had been swimming earlier. Some boys that had been fishing tried to catch him on a fish head, but he took the whole hook and all.

We had dinner down at the blue restaurant that you see coming in called Fishermans. Ask what they have before you order. Provisioning is apparently hit or miss in Bimini and it does no good to look at the menu and decide when they are out of almost everything. I had fried chicken. We also talked to the folks at Brown's Marina which is near there. There is a bar down in that area called the End of the World Bar which has a sand floor. Then we had ice cream at CJs which was the only place on the island that I found any ice cream and they only had chocolate. They have a TV, stools and tables. Has kind of a local diner hangout ambience.
RosalieAnn at the dock

RosalieAnn at the dock


The wind really had kicked up and when we got back to the boat, we turned on the wind instruments and saw gusts of up to 41 knots. The boat was healed in the slip, and salt spray was all over the port side. The waves hit the back of the boat so hard that it sounded like it was being hit with a baseball bat.

Monday, February 19, 2001 Fuel Spill

A power boat came into the slip beside us and everyone got off (which they are not supposed to do until they are cleared in). One of them was in a wheelchair. I was sitting there trying to decide where we should go next, and reading stuff to Bob out of the guide and I looked over and there's pink stuff running down the side of the boat. He'd left a transfer pump on and was pumping diesel overboard. Bob went and got the harbor master, and he went to customs, and the guy moseyed back to the boat. He kept saying it was an honest mistake. That wouldn't cut it in the states. The marina people just shrugged and said the tide would take care of it. We had dinner at the Anchorage again.

Tuesday Feb 20th - Layout of Alicetown

A cruise ship, Black Prince, anchored off the town (the name of the town is Alice Town, but everyone just says Bimini), and they ferried the people ashore - met an old couple (he was 85) from England where he used to teach school. I went and bought post cards. The selection was really poor. I mean one was of the bank. There are two streets - one is King Street which is the length of town,
King Street

King Street


You climb up the hill
Cross street between King and Queen

Cross street between King and Queen


to Queen Street, and on the other side is the beach.
Queen Street

Queen Street


Queen street is only a few blocks long and not much more than one car wide.
Traffic jam on Queen Street

Traffic jam on Queen Street

We walked around town and observed the tourists. The music was playing even louder than usual at the Hideaway (and The Complete Angler Bar) which was a place where Ernest Hemingway hung out.
The Complete Angler Bar

The Complete Angler Bar


The beach was especially crowded - there were people on it!!
Black Prince passenger on the beach

Black Prince passenger on the beach


We had dinner on the boat.

Wednesday February 21 - A Beach Day

We are getting ready to leave as the wind is dying down some and the forecast is good for tomorrow. We've been talking to Herb of Southbound II on the SSB (maritime weather reports for cruisers). The French boat which came in from Mexico the day after we did has had their son and DIL visiting, and they are heading for Nassau. We lent them our guide and they wanted to buy it from us. They left, and so did the next boat down - they were going down to Gun Cay to go across to the Berry Islands.
Bimini Island Tours

Bimini Island Tours


Originally we were going across the flats, but that trip will take two days and we either have to spend the night in transit (and the Banks aren't well marked) or anchor somewhere. So we are going to go to Grand Bahama Island instead.

I wrote post cards, and then took them up to mail at the post office. We went snorkeling off the beach in the afternoon
Deserted beach

Deserted beach


and saw some big barracuda, and a school of permit and lots of other fish. Also saw a pair of blue jeans on the bottom. I was going to go to Opals which is a place where they announce what they have, and you can order from that - it is in someone's house. But I talked to our daughter on the phone and she said CJs was her husband's favorite and all we'd had there was ice cream, so we went there instead of to Opals. We had our SIL's favorite cracked conch. and then had an early night.

Thursday: Feb 22

WInds were predicted from the SW to be light, and the elephants in the Gulf Stream that were riled up by the strong NE winds we were having have gone to sleep.

Bob got up real early and went up to the bathroom and shaved. (They have two bathrooms which are locked except at night when they put a piece of cardboard in the lock. Each is one narrow un partitioned room with two toilets, one sink and a shower.) I got up at 6:30, and put the stuff in the cockpit (computer, GPS, binoculars, charts), and Bob singled up the lines and started the engine at 6:40.

There were two BIG power boats on the outside of the dock - one of them came in late yesterday- so that guy came down his gangplank (he had one) sleepily with a coffee cup in his hand. Bob said we were going to back a little and I should cast off the lines (which I did) and the boat backed down into the marina and then swung around nicely (not much wind) and we headed out. The power boat guy had gotten on his swim platform just in case, but he didn't need to worry.

We were underway out into the channel by 6:45. We motored slowly out the channel. A power boat had gone out before us, and there were a couple of big sailboats with dive flags that came out of one of the marinas nearer the entrance, and one fell in behind us. Ahead of us, opposite the new marina entrance on South Bimini there was some additional shoaling and the power boat ran aground as he had been too far off the beach. The big sailboat passed us on the beach side, and we followed them out to the range, and the power boat got himself off and followed us.

The chart for the Bimini area is seriously out of calibration. The electronic chart has us sailing from an area of mangrove flats down the middle of South Bimini, instead of where we actually were - the marina and down the channel next to the beach.

We turned north after we ran out along the range and put up the sails and had breakfast. The winds were light - about 10 mph so we were motor sailing, but the Gulf Stream was pushing us north at over 7 knots. Pretty soon, we saw the lighthouse at Great Isaac.

The sea was glassy calm and deep blue. The blue sky with white cumulus clouds was a metallic reflective sheen over the deep blue. You could only see the darker color in the shadow of the swells. Schools of glittering flying fish were constantly skittering and skipping across the water. The only fly in the ointment was that the winds were so light that we had to have the motor on.

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Posted by greatgrandmaR 10:26 Archived in Bahamas Tagged bimini Comments (0)

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